The Ultimate One Watch Collection Options For All Your Timekeeping Needs

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In truth, there are many different types of watches in the horological universe.

You may be motivated by the durability of an epic diver that you can wear in the sea, and still catch eyes in the boardroom. The feeling of a classical dress number with all the vintage bells and whistles may be the design aesthetic you want.

Yet, for many horophiles, the collecting game is a very pricey endeavour. Heck, laying down a little cash on a Rolex Sky-Dweller may end up setting you back over £10,000, and that’s even after an 8% cooling off in the secondary market at the end of 2024!

LEARN MORE: Luxury Watch Prices Falling As Secondary Rolex Market Declines 8% This Year

Therefore, we believe that it’s only fair to show you those “one and done” watches that are truly timeless, enigmatic in design, brimming with ergonomics, functionality, perhaps a complication (or two) while having longevity, withstanding knocks and a possible heirloom to future generations.

What’s not to like?

In the first instance, how do we define the ultimate one watch? What are the draws and attractive attributes that make up each of these models? Settle down for a second, Timelords. We are going to lay down some context behind why these singular novelties are everything you need… and more!

In a world of maximalism, easy-to-buy advertisements and new timepieces being persistently released, Chrono Hunter has ensured to only feature the best models, from Rolex, to avant-garde creators like Parmigiani Fleurier.

Are you ready to take a deep dive into the best one watch collection choices your winders will ever need? Catering to all tastes, budgets and design codes, from a few thousand to a few hundred thousand pounds, we have left no horological stone unturned…

What Is A One Watch Collection?

In short, it’s the Gandalf of the timekeeping industry. One to rule them all.

Delivering optimal versatility and quality across a range of design and technical creations, as opposed to buying a singular model for each function, these may be chosen for a host of reasons:

Sentimental Attachment

Defined as a grail watch, this refers to the model you’ve had your eyes on for years. Owning this means you would need no more… your horological journey is complete!

Not For Individual Events

In our humble view, this is an everyday wearer, a luxurious addition to a suit, and a best-friend for the biggest events in your life, from your first Christmas in your new home, to shaking hands for the first time ever with your father-in-law.

Sufficient Quality To Offer Top Longevity

The best lines guarantee you maximum efficiency and accuracy throughout your ownership. This relates to the quality of the calibre, durability of the materials, and the timelessness of the overall design.

More Cost Effective Than Buying Lots Of Models

Buying one exceptional piece is a better financial decision than buying many. With superior quality comes long-lasting wearability, and an aesthetic that simply will not go out of fashion and buck the trend.

Of course, tastes change and your style may go from steampunk goth to suited and booted businessman. However, a high-quality model will never let you down and in some cases, may even prove to be a valued asset, holding and surpassing its original value over time.

Are you one and done ready? Let’s get into it.

1. Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G

Residing as one of the grand Holy Trinity brands alongside Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe has a sensational lineage, high level of craftsmanship, and indelible influence on the industry.

Source - Patek Philippe

Ticking along since 1839, perhaps one of their most innovative lines is the astonishing Calatrava. Introduced in 1932, the timepieces originally came under Ref. 96, and were inspired by the Order of Calatrava, a Spanish religious order with a distinct cross emblem.

For the design, we see clear links to the famous Bauhaus principle - the idea that there’s a focus on simplicity and functionality, as opposed to excess and ostentatiousness. This is where this particular Calatrava 5226G flourishes.

Totalling 40mm x 8.53mm of white gold, they are desirable due to the precious metal case and stunning polished finish across the tops. For the sides, we have a unique guilloche motif, defined as a clous de paris hobnail pattern.

Producing an intricate, many-square pattern, this aesthetic has been a feature of the Calatrava since 1934, but it was displayed on the bezel as opposed to the casesides. This subtle exchange means the pattern remains, without sacrificing seamlessness.

For the dial, we have a textured charcoal grey pattern that runs from a dark gradient rim to a lighter grey centre. Given a tarmac style finish, this is interestingly a strong contrast to the matte finishes of the Ref. 7200R or swirls that define the Ref 4997/200G.

In truth, we love it! It allows the applied Arabic numerals with beige luminescent coating to clearly stand out, alongside syringe style hands in the centre. If you want a further injection of design, around the periphery is a 60-minute track for precision reading.

Ensuring consistent time is the 26-330 S C. At just 3.3mm thick, this movement offers a 45 hour power reserve alongside a 28,800VpH through Gyromax and Spiromax support. One of the great all rounders and a delicious dress number, it is certified with a Patek Philippe seal, delivering that excellent long-lasting Swiss quality.

You can buy a Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G at retail for £35,730 as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

Timeless and as enduring as Shirley Bassey, the Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G is a timeless addition to any man’s wardrobe. Dressy, luxurious, and built with a strong technical side, rest assured that this beauty will last the test of time.

Defined by clean, pure lines for that touch of elegance
Part of the Calatrava line which embodies the brand's elegant and understated theme.
Versatile 40mm case that works well with a suit, or can be dressed down with a sports jacket ensemble.

2. Parmigiani Fleurier L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse

Parmigiani Fleurier is the brainchild of legendary designer Michel Parmigiani.

And like the infamous Italian cheese this brand has aged remarkably well. Did you know that King Charles III has a penchant for this Maison in the form of the automatic Fleurier Toric Chronograph in 18-carat gold.

And for a princely sum, you can grab a slice of the action with this sublime one and done choice.

Since founding the company back in 1996, the manufacturer has produced a plethora of top timepieces, including over thirty in house movements, akin to what Frederique Constant has churned out. This includes the sensational Bugatti Type 370 that's made in a similarly inspired case.

Source - Parmigiani Fleurier

On the global stage, they’ve won a number of awards from the 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève award for Best Chronograph under their Toric Chronograph, as well as the 2005 Watch of the Year Awards for the Tonda 1950.

So, what makes this December 2024 L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse release so special?

Celebrating Michel Parmigiani’s birthday on the 2nd December (many belated wishes), it is a detailed insight into the technical excellence of the brand, and the legendary craftsmanship that has followed them since their inception.

At 41.6mm x 12.65mm in white gold, they feature a range of finishes across the case, including satin-brushing and polishing. Fitted with a 6.4mm prominent crown and a repeater slider on the left hand side, the crown is given a green enamel centre with the Parmigiani logo.

LEARN MORE: 29 Best Green Dial Watches To Level Up Your Wrist Game

For the front and back, we see a fibonacci sequence that ties in with the famous Golden Ratio. To delve into this idea further, founder Michel Parmigiani stated:

"In nature, every form, every pattern bears the imprint of perfection—a perfection found in the spirals of a pinecone, where the golden ratio and the Fibonacci sequence intertwine to reveal the harmony of the world."

Across the top is a sage green Grand Feu enamel cover crafted by artisan enameller, Vanessa Lecci, finished with hand-guilloché by Swiss master craftsman, Yann Von Kaenel and hand-engraving by Master Engraver, Eddy Jacquet.

Time is read via the H and M hands (hour and minute) on the back. The indices are made up of rhodium plated spherical dots, displayed on a Guatemalan white jade disk. However, the main focal point is the sublime cathedral gong system.

This chimes a resonant melody, allowing you to clearly define the hours, quarter hours and minutes, without needing to refer to the back for the specific hours and minutes. Keeping all of this in check is the PF355.

Developed by renowned supplier, Renaud et Papi, this manual-winding movement totals 392 components, and offers a combined 21,600VpH, alongside a weekend-proof 72 hour power reserve.

Capped at 5 pieces and available to be personalised to your tastes, you can buy a Parmigiani Fleurier L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse at retail when you enquire about a model.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

We think it is a sensational aesthetic that boasts the luxury of a precious metal case, alongside the ethereal beauty of a sage green guilloche front, and an ultra complex chiming system to read the time.

Ultra avant-garde aesthetic, range of complications such as hours and quarter hours with fibonacci inspired back.
Celebratory piece for the birth of one of the most influential creators in the industry.
Completely unique and exceptionally rare on the marketplace.

3. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

Oh holy crumbs. This could be another grail contender. Plus if it’s been on the wrist of Brad Pitt, you know you are onto a timely winner in this category.

Upon the release of the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 back in 1977, it celebrated the 222nd anniversary of the great Genevan-titans.

Source - Vacheron Constantin

What started as a limited edition release, quickly expanded to become a sacred part of the brand's portfolio.

Designed by Jörg Hysek, they boast a bold integrated bracelet aesthetic, feeding into an angular case with indented bezel, together with a small Maltese cross in the bottom right, as per the emblem of the brand.

Bridging the gap between conventional dress timepieces and versatile everydayers, the Historiques 222 is a stand-out leader of the marketplace. In our opinion, one of the biggest trailblazers from the line is this 18K yellow gold stunner we have in front of us today.

LEARN MORE: Here's Why Yellow Gold Watches Are On Trend In 2023

While there is a stainless steel option, the yellow version capably melds the luxury of precious metal materials, with the tight, modern dimensions of a conventional everyday piece.

Measuring 37mm x 7.95mm, the models are both brushed and polished throughout. Featuring a fluted ring across the top, we even have a cheeky Maltese cross in the bottom right, pertaining to their rich history.

Vacheron Constantin likes to keep things faithful, therefore the dial is inspired by the previous model. Given a light, matte shade, this cleaner colour allows for differentiation from the case, alongside prominent hour markers and easily displayed hands.

The baton indices and hands are given a strip of luminescence through their centre, with an easy to read black minute track for precision timekeeping. The additional date aperture at 3 o’clock is a nice complement to the minimalist yet striking face.

They ensure that time is of the essence via the speedy 2455/2. Made in-house, this is made of 194 components and produces a 28,800VpH alongside a 40 hour power reserve.

You can buy a Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 at retail for £71,000 as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 is a winner for most horophiles interested in flexing a piece that doubles down as a fashion legend, or a quick timekeeper for the office.

The precious metal aesthetic is the ultimate luxury statement.
Prominent Maltese cross for that luxury brand identification.
Emblematic design codes like ridged top and integrated bracelet.

4. H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton

Do you have any skeletons in the closet?

Well, you might soon thanks to our next one collection contender. Launched at Baselworld 2020, the Streamliner from H. Moser & Cie takes inspiration from the free-flowing designs of transport from the 1930s and ‘40s.

Exemplified by soft curvature and modern aesthetics, the line utilises features like integrated bracelets, fumé dials and high-powered in-house movements.

Source - H. Moser & Cie

LEARN MORE: A Definitive Guide To The Best Dress Watches For Any Swanky Event

Look, this line saw the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar become a finalist for the Best Men’s Watch for GPHG 2022.

So, we know it has the ability to be a notable variant. But what makes the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton such an attractive model and why can it be classified as a top purchase?

Indicating just the second time that the line had moved into the skeleton arena, it is given the signature broad, cushion shaped style, and comes in steel so it can be worn as a subtle everyday beater, or being an eye-catcher in the boardroom.

With a case diameter of 40mm and a thickness of 12.1mm, the pieces are brushed and polished from top to bottom. The bevelled, slightly domed sapphire crystal serves to bolster the legibility of the dial. We’ve no complaints about the anti-reflective coating either!

Offering 120 metres of water resistance, this one and done piece can battle the elements, including a brief dip in your pool, to the dastardly British showers. The integrated bracelet is given a futuristic single link design, plus they keep a polished finish to match the visual theatre going on.

The dial is one of the best skeletonised designs, exposing an anthracite finished movement. The bridges and the intricate rotors do not pose any visibility threats since the rose hour markers and hands are exceptionally legible with their touches of luminescence.

Skeleton dials have become incredibly popular over the years, and H. Moser & Cie represent the zenith of the aesthetic. They ensure to darken the movement to let timekeeping be boasted, but keep elements like the tourbillon at 6 o’clock very prominent with its yellow bridge and central, purple jewel.

Speaking of the movement, it’s named the HMC 814. Made entirely in-house, it utilises their bi-directional pawl winding system and at just 5.5mm thick, it benefits from its double-hairspring and tourbillon to maintain a steady 21,600VpH and a 72 hour power reserve.

You can buy a H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton at retail for around £70,120 as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

It is a figurehead of the sports industry and is known for their sleek, fuss-free dial, leaving all complications behind for a gravity defying tourbillon and rose clock.

Refreshingly curved and sleek for a sports piece.
Iconic cushion case and integrated bracelet, making it extremely versatile.
Strong water resistance for durability, yet an openworked dial for high-fashion.

5. Grand Seiko SBGW314 Hoshizukiyo

When looking to buy that ultimate timepiece for all manner of occasions and situations, we understand that a little vintage allure with a modernised interior can go a long way.

Source - Grand Seiko

Good timing then as the Grand Seiko SBGW314 Hoshizukiyo is a strong contender. An ode to the past, yet alive and ticking with the sound of high-powered horology.

It would be hard to define the best Grand Seiko, but it all started with their first ever timepiece in 1960. Crafted out of 14K gold and just 35mm in diameter, like Logan Paul, it broke boundaries as it featured the powerful Cal. 3180, offering a +12 / -3 seconds a day accuracy and 45 hour power reserve.

LEARN MORE: 18 Most Popular Grand Seiko Watches For Men At Every Price Point

Indicating the first ever model in Japan to be compliant with the standard of excellence of the Bureaux Officiels de Contrôle de la Marche des Montres, this created new ground and brought Japan front and centre on the horological scene.

For 2024, Grand Seiko returned to the revolutionary timepiece with a 1960s inspired design, coupled with a resolutely modern dial aesthetic.

The SBGW314 is an exciting addition. While it is 3mm larger than the original, with a 38mm x 10.9mm, the diameter fits in line with the penchant for slimmer wrist worthy pieces.

Furthermore, while the original used plating, Grand Seiko decided to go all in this time with a solid 18K rose case, Zaratsu polished until you can see your reflection akin to the Zenith Extreme Defy Mirror, we still have that classic dress circular design.

For the dial, the blue sunray brushed finish directly relates to Hoshizukiyo - A Japanese term for starry night. But this is not just for Christmas. Oh no.

Simply refer to the rose polished paired-baton hour markers and the sword shaped hands. Nope, no other complications to note, but a quick spin will reveal a sapphire crystal exhibition back. The visible Cal. 9S64 offers a 4Hz beat, 3 day power reserve and reliable +5 / -3 seconds per day accuracy.

Limited to 50 pieces, you can buy a Grand Seiko SBGW314 Hoshizukiyo at retail for £25,500 as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

Vintage can be too faithful and underpowered, or completely violate the original codes altogether. Grand Seiko ensures that their SBGW314 follows its predecessor, but is strengthened with a more accurate movement, and tantalising Japanese-inspired dial.

Tight dimensions to suit the retro lover.
Strong in-house mechanics with reliable daily accuracy.
Luxurious material with signature Zaratsu finish throughout.

6. IWC Pilots Mark XX Patrouille Suisse

The IWC Mark XX is one of the latest evolutions of the astonishing early Mark series.

Source - IWC

Originally launched as the Mark 11 back in 1948, this became the ultimate pilot's piece, adopted by the British Royal Air Force. Made up of a soft-iron inner case to repel magnetism and large Arabic numerals, they were an aviator's best friend.

But it’s the clarity that we enthusiasts go back for…time and time again.

As the Mark series progressed over the years, through to the Mark XII in 1994 that boasted a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement, the Mark XV in 1999 with its classic Mark XII silhouette, and modernised Mark XVIII represented the supreme tool piece.

The Mark XX is the next replacement, and takes the mantle as one of the most desirable everyday models in the current industry.

LEARN MORE: IWC Mark: New Silver Dial Commemorates 75 Years Of The Iconic Pilot’s Series

Drawing its design from the legendary series, the Mark XX celebrates 60 years of aerial dominance with Patrouille Suisse, the Swiss Air Force acrobatics team since 1994.

LEARN MORE: Chrono Hunter's Thoughts On The New IWC "Lake Tahoe" Inspired Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar

At 40mm x 10.6mm, in titanium, they are exceptionally durable, lighter and stronger than their steel counterparts. Given a matte blasted finish across the case, top and crown, the appearance is sublime and a more than comfortable fit.

In celebration of the partnership with Patrouille Suisse, the back is solid titanium with a special engraving of three fighter jets, with the text “Tribute To Patrouille Suisse” running along the top.

The slate grey dial feeds perfectly into the instrument theme on the display. Given a sunburst finish that allows light to be reflected through, the prominent Arabic numerals and sword shaped hands are coated in Luminova for optimal legibility. Is that crystal clear? It should be by now.

Accompanied by a date aperture based at 3 o’clock, this is remarkably accessible for the gent interested in something that can pull its own weight, while drawing a few eyes with seductive black looks.

Keeping tempo is the ultra-strong automatic Cal. 32111, with an impressive 120 hour power reserve and speedy 4Hz frequency.

Capped at 250 pieces, you can buy an IWC Pilots Mark XX Patrouille Suisse at retail for £6,000 as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

It is a magnificent combination of the influential Mark series, the collaboration between the sensational Swiss Air Force team, all built within a universally respected titanium case.

Exceptionally functional with a legible dial, suiting a myriad of wearers.
Titanium material offering lightweight profile and first rate robustness
Desirable patrouille Suisse emblem on the back and rare 250 limited edition run.

7. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque

If you are simply drowning in the idea of all the different complications out there, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s sensational Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 combines their innovative swivel face design, with exceptional avant-garde twist.

Source - Jaeger-LeCoultre

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso revolutionised the idea of a sports inspired model upon its release in 1931.

Designed to prevent polo players from breaking their crystals, the case twisted on its axis so that the solid back faced up. Perhaps the Archimedes of luxury sports models, it was a Eureka moment!

This concept has evolved, but never to the extent of the 2021 Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque. Let’s reveal why this is desirable, and why this flexes many different types of design within it!

Designed to suit the horophile who needs to know everything all at once, we are treated to not one but four different faces within a 51.2mm x 15.15mm white gold case. Precious, rare, and still quite tight considering there’s 11 complications beating within, the most they have ever put into a novelty.

On the recto (front) side, we have time read through black central hands and a classic squared minute track displayed against a silvered guilloche face. The hours are thickened to distinguish them from the rest of the track.

Furthermore, we have a perpetual calendar covering a grande date, leap year, month indicator and openworked tourbillon at 7 o’clock to fight against gravity.

DISCOVER MORE: Chrono Hunter Picks 19 Of The Best Tourbillon Watches For Your Wrist

For the Verso side (the back), this utilises the same Clous de Paris guilloché aesthetic as the front, but features openworked elements as noted through the Minute Repeater.

These clanging chimes are made up of all of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s innovations to date, including welded gongs, Trebuchet hammers and a silent regulator to ensure there’s no gap between the hours, quarters and minutes.

This may be a hammer blow as you may not look elsewhere for your collection to be completed. Producing a stunning acoustic sound, this is both a timekeeping miracle, and an auditorial breath-taker.

For the cradle that holds the recto and verso, this displays lunar complications on either side. This includes:

Ellipital complication
Ecliptic plane
Laser engraved moon phase
Eclipse reader

These functions are exceptionally rare for the horological industry, and serve to celebrate the sheer complexity of them, together with the romanticism of the celestial universe.

But, what could possibly power something as complex as this? Easy, the Calibre 185. Requiring 12 patents, it totals around 800 parts and takes up to 12 months to assemble.

Offering a 50 hour power reserve (what did you expect, this is powering the equivalent of a horological train), the movement is finished well and can be seen at various points through the dials. This truly is a feat of engineering and a nail on success.

Capped at just 10 pieces, you can buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque at retail for around £1.1 million as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

They do not get as complex as this.

Harnessing all the facets of horology, including beautiful chimes, accurate timekeeping and lunar capability, this is a model that appeases every sense for genuine aficionados.

A plethora of advanced complications.
Refined case
Continuation of the legendary Reverso design.

8. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 - Tiffany

There’s big dogs for your collection…and there’s colossal canines. This one is a poochy number bar none.

Worn by the most revered celebs in the world, from Leonardo Di Caprio to Jay-Z, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 is a grand culmination of the Swiss brands prestige, alongside the rare draw of the famed New York jewellers, Tiffany.

Source - Bonhams

LEARN MORE: Is This Audemars Piguet's Answer To The "Tiffany" Patek Phillipe Nautilus? Introducing The Royal Oak 37mm Turquoise Dial

In fact, the very first model was sold at auction for around £6 million in 2021, comfortably breaking the record for a Nautilus 5711 auction price. Just to clarify, while it was still in the catalogue, this priced the original at over 100 times more than its original retail figure.

As far as lines go, this may be the hallmark of all of them, due to rarity, expense and an undeniable level of luxury that simply cannot be contended with. The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 Tiffany totals 40mm x 8.3mm of solid steel.

Interestingly, steel Nautilus pieces are very rare due to identifying with the classic sports-chic designs that made up the originals back in the 1970s. This same principle crosses to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak too, so keep your eyes peeled for those variants!

DISCOVER MORE: 10 Luxury Sports Watches To Wear In Time For The 2023 London Marathon

In terms of physical design, there are no great changes from the rest of the catalogue.

The porthole inspired bezel still remains an iconic feature, alongside the “ears” on either side of the case. The bracelet is integrated as per tradition, and things could be said to just be a continuation of a beautiful line.

That is, until we reach the splendor of the dial.

Arriving in Tiffany blue, that robin-egg shade that adds a little light to the misery of navy, it is an instant identifier of the association with the renowned jeweller. But, just in case you weren’t convinced of the collaboration, they also have their name imprinted under the hands at 6 o’clock, “Tiffany & Co”.

Patek Philippe continues with the classic horizontal embossed finish. These interjecting lines create a shutter style effect, serving to add a little texture to the matte blue finish.

Time is simply read via the black hour batons and hands. Given a luminescent centre, the pieces are easy to read in all conditions.

Finally, the added date aperture at 3 o’clock is a useful addition, and does not impede the Tiffany and Patek Philippe fusion. Home to the 26-330 SC movement, it powers the hours, minutes, seconds and the date. At just 3.3mm thick, the 45 hour power reserve and 28,800VpH are solid stats.

You can no longer buy a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 - Tiffany at retail as it’s been discontinued. You can buy it on the secondary market for upwards of £1.1 million as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

Another holy grail on many lovers' lists, it fuses the prestige of the Nautilus with the luxury of the famous jewellers, so we can see this being a piece for all things significant, spanning chairman’s office, big bonus day, wedding flex and more.

Desirable Tiffany reference.
Notable egg shell colour scheme.
Maintains popular Nautilus aesthetics.

9. Omega Seamaster Titanium and Bronze Gold 210.90.42.20.10.001

Retrosim rules the day as Omega brings to the table in December 2024, a stunning Seamaster in an unseen fusion of titanium and bronze.

Source - Omega

LEARN MORE: The 11 Best Bronze Watches For All Patina And Vintage Lovers - Hublot, Longines, IWC

Following suit with the steel and titanium, black and grey dial no-date releases during the same month, the bronze and titanium edition stands out with its proud green dial and bezel.

Taking inspiration from the desirable Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition from 2021, the grade 2 titanium case is a nice addition. This sits nicely with a no date aperture, while opting for aluminium inserts in the top, as opposed to the industry standard of ceramic. Vintage points abound…

LEARN MORE: 19 Best Vintage Watches To Buy Right Now - IWC Portugieser, Tudor Submariner

Sized at 42mm x 13.8mm, this is resoundingly sporty, leaning into the traditional dive sizes that allow for the strong 300 metres of water resistance. Brushed from top to bottom, the chamfered edges do seem to add a much welcomed pop of luxury.

Moving on to the unidirectional bezel, and they opt for aluminum in keeping with the retro vibes. Sure, ceramic is the stronger option, but we have no problem with the green aluminium insert they opt for. It clearly allows the bronzed 60-minute scale to clearly stand out.

Furthermore, the ring itself is made of bronze, adding a warm, vintage tinge to the modernity of green. As it has the potential to patina over time. This means its hue is individual to you, and may garner a soft, red shade depending on where you rock it.

LEARN MORE: 27 Best Red Dial Watches To Fire Up Your Collection

The dial is similarly made of green aluminium. There’s no waved, laser engraved pattern, nor is there any finish for that matter. The solid mass of green pulls no punches, but allows the vintage toned luminova filled hour markers and hands to clearly stand out.

As far as legibility goes, this is a top choice for most. Through its decisions to have no-date, and use vintage luminova, harks back to the original Seamaster models. Luckily, they ensure not to go too old-school on the movement.

They rely on the in-house Cal. 8806 that is completely automatic and Master Chronometer certified. Boasting a 55 hour power reserve and 25,200VpH, the movements are reliable, steady and ensure maximum accuracy in all situations.

You can buy an Omega Seamaster Titanium and Bronze Gold at retail for £10,100 as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

The Omega Seamaster has surpassed its role as a traditional dive design.

Using luxurious materials like titanium and bronze, these are still rugged and can roll with the punches. Additionally, the retro edge makes them timeless and a sure-fire winner for any horophile.

Vintage themes such as aged lume not to mention aluminium insert and dial.
Relationship with the prominent Seamaster line, including its reliable 300 metres water resistance.
Modern dial colour to counter the vintage feel.

10. Cartier Santos Dual Time

A huge talking point among horophiles, especially since it can be classified as the first ever piece, the Cartier Santos is a must have for any ardent enthusiast looking for a one and done.

Source - Cartier

Released in 1904, it formed the basis of the first ever pilot's timepiece, following Louis Cartier’s friend and aviator, Alberto Santos Dumont, asking him for a model he could wear during =flight.

Thus, the Cartier Santos was born.

Throughout its life, it has remained pretty steady over the years in terms of its consistent yet enduring design. This includes a square case alongside visible screws, dials that boasted rail track centres and blue cabochon crowns.

If it ain't broke, why fix it?

However, for 2024, it could be argued that the Cartier Santos Dual Time offers a new take on the line, albeit with a few common design codes with its predecessors.

Coming in 40.2mm x 10.1mm of solid steel, considering this is the line that produces a plethora of materials, including rose and yellow gold, this is a bit of a shame, but it is well-looked after with polished top and brushed sides.

LEARN MORE: Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R Rose Gold

Across the top are 8 visible screws, adding to the charisma of the original Santos timepiece. The same goes for the affixed crown with that all important sapphire cabochon strapped on the side. So far so good. Now it’s time for the gamechanger!

For the dial, we have an anthracite shade that is embellished with a sunray brushed finish. This allows the polished Roman numeral hour markers to clearly stand out, alongside the central hands.

These are presented around the squared minute railway track. The additional date aperture at 3 o’clock is tasteful, maybe a little tough to see as it’s quite small.

Nevertheless, the funky part is the extra sub-counter at 6 o’clock. Slightly recessed into the dial, this acts as a dual time function that boasts an extra, small clock, with an hour hand to clearly determine the second time zone.

Keep your colourful faces and two-tone materials, Cartier. We want more complications!

The general timekeeping and second time zone is powered by an outsourced movement. Yielding a 4Hz and 40 hour power reserve, the models are speedy and can capably power the functions for those busy office days or late night cocktail bar rendez-vous.

You can buy a Cartier Santos Dual Time at retail for £8,800 as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

Keeping with the inherent beauty of the Cartier Santos, the additional dual time function progresses these models past their conventional purpose.

This is a highly versatile piece that can be flexed in all circumstances, especially since it has an added 100 metres of water resistance, so is pool-ready.

Fabulous dual time function with accurate general timekeeping.
Nod to the classic Santos aesthetic with visible screws.
Versatile design, but luxurious face with polished Roman numeral markers.

11. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra Thin Openworked - White Gold

We are not going big for our next collection choice but rather jumbo.

Well, that is in the form of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra Thin… perhaps one of the most aggressive oxymorons in horology.

Source - Audemars Piguet

When the Royal Oak was originally released in 1972, it quickly earned the name “Jumbo” as its 39mm diameter was classified as on the large side back in the days when Richard Nixon was involved in Watergate and Margerethe II became the first Queen of Denmark since the 15th Century.

Epic times indeed.

Interestingly, the nickname was said to have come from the 1990s under the distributor Desco who stated the models were “Jumbo Size”. So where does the Extra Thin element come in? This is a reference to the movement that, you guessed it, is exceptionally slender yet powerful.

For this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra Thin Openworked in white gold, it combines the sporty design of the classic Royal Oak, dolls it up in a precious metal case, resulting in a stunning openworked face that's both modern and exceptionally legible.

At 39mm x 8.1mm, they are very sleek on the wrist, especially since the thickness is almost non-existent. Audemars Piguet have outdone themselves once again with the fantastic brushed finish from top to bottom, with polished edges across the octagonal bezel and case sides.

Affixed with an integrated bracelet alongside visible screws on the top, they are exquisite examples of timeless design, stemming back from the original Royal Oak design.

LEARN MORE: Review: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak White Dial 15400ST

The material with brushed finish is clearly a direct attempt by the brand to demonstrate that while yes, this is a fancy shmancy case, it still has all the trappings of a high-performance sports piece.

For the front, this could be considered one of the most attractive releases ever from Audemars Piguet. Remember, we are working with the popularised extra-thin movement, and in a very rare instance, they are treating us to a direct view into its magnificence.

The openworked aesthetic features anthracite brushed bridges and prominent purple jewels to ensure the smooth operation of the movement. Moving in real-time, the movement does not impede on the legibility of the polished, lume filled central hands and hour markers. `

Seemingly built upon one another, the bridges and the movement contrast well with each, and the hands and hour markers sit on top for easy access.

What are we looking at exactly? This, Timelords, is Cal. 7124. Offering a 28,800VpH alongside a 57 hour power reserve, the in-house movement totals 211 components and features 31 jewels for smooth operation.

You can buy an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra Thin Openworked at retail when you request a price as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

This is without question a grand finale of Audemars Piguet’s greatest accomplishments. The Royal Oak line, skeletonised dials, and extra-thin movements all in one still offer unparalleled accuracy with a soupcon of legendary luxury sports chic.

Part of the illustrious Royal Oak line.
Modernised openworked face to see in-demand movement.
Luxury case in sporty design for a stylish contrast.

12. Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold

Established in 1988, Daniel Roth began his journey as an independent designer.

Known for his intricate designs with tourbillons and perpetual calendars, his business was later acquired by Bulgari in 1998, wherein he developed his styles, with a number of his vintage pieces becoming nearly as in-demand as tickets to a Lady Gaga concert.

Source - Daniel Roth

LEARN MORE: A. Lange & Söhne Unveils New Pink Gold 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Watch

This only increased following his recognition for a number of awards, including GPHG’s Best Chronograph for his Double Retrograde Chronograph in 1999, Best Calendar for his Perpetual Calendar in 2003, and Best With A Complication, for his Daniel Roth 18K Rose Gold Tourbillion in 2008.

Perhaps one of the greatest renditions of his complication skill is his Tourbillon. Updated for 2024 from the previous Tourbillon C187 back in 1988. This C187 aesthetic was present in the Tourbillon Souscription from 2023.

LEARN MORE: Chrono Hunter Picks 19 Of The Best Tourbillon Watches For Your Wrist

But, today we have a revised master. Enter the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold, inspired by the original, but refreshingly approachable to the modern wearer.

Sized at 38.6mm x 9.2mm, they conform to the current slimmer case sizes with a low 30 metres of water resistance. Don’t hold that against them for a second. This dynamo will likely be your precious metal best friend in everything pre and post beach party!

Polished throughout, they are prime accessories for a variety of outfits. Seamlessly working with suits, or elevating your everyday ensemble, these timepieces are to inform the world you know your horology.

For the face, this is similarly crafted out of rose gold. Expertly finished by Kari Voutilainen, he opts for a lignes guilloche pattern, essentially creating a legion of exceptionally fine lines.

The design follows an openworked tourbillon at 6 o’clock, above a series of 20-second scales that are fitted with three arms for each scale, and a large clock face above. These cover the hours and minutes, with black hands and Roman numerals.

Given a sapphire back, this exposes the expertly finished Cal. DR001. It’s granted a number of finishes, including bevelling and côtes-de-Genève. Around 4.6mm thick, it totals 206 components, and offers an 80 hour power reserve, beating at 21,600VpH.

Capped at 50 pieces per year, you can buy a Daniel Roth at retail for around £137,160 as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

Daniel Roth is a powerhouse of an independent designer.

Defined by his skills with the tourbillon, this stands clear as a modernised play on his iconic design. Precious, powerful and collabed with some of the industry's greats like Audemars Piguet, this is a model to summarise your faith in complicated, luxurious pieces.

Precious case in legendary double-ellipse shape.
Features desirable tourbillon complicated and unorthodox scale aesthetic.
Phenomenal face produced by six-time GPHG award winner, Kari Voutilainen.

13. Richard Mille RM 027-01 Rafael Nadal

Our next choice might be game, set and match.

With the Richard Mille RM 027-01 Rafael Nadal, the gauntlet was thrown down for something that could be the world's lightest mechanical timepiece.

Therefore, in 2013, the brand released the extraordinary RM 27-01 which promptly became the world's lightest at 18.83 grams.

Source - Richard Mille

Associated with legendary tennis player, Rafael Nadal (four major single Grand Slams and winning Olympic single gold medal), who announced his retirement at the end of 2024, he put the model through its paces in order to test its strength and durability while on his wrist.

LEARN MORE: The Very Best Watches Worn By Novak Djokovic, Roger Federer & Rafael Nadal

This isn’t breaking news either.

Similarly releasing the RM 009, this was worn by F1 star Felipe Massa to wear during his races. It was avidly tested by him while on the track.

So, while Nadal wore the model when winning his 21st Grand Slam, Richard Mille must’ve been counting their lucky stars that they now have a practical example to cope with in any environment… even superstar territory!

As a high-performance flex that was made specifically for the Spanish tennis icon, Rafael Nadal, what exactly makes this so powerful?

LEARN MORE: A Collection Of The Very Best Luxury Watches From Wimbledon 2023

Crafted out of titanium Lital, this is an adapted alloy that is typically spotted in the aerospace industry. Known for being exceptionally strong against corrosion, it’s very light and thus why it’s popularised in high-intensity environments.

As a strong reason for the weight of the watches, they are designed in a classic tonneau shape, which is openworked on the front and the back for optimal legibility. This works well with the sapphire crystal on the top that is both scratch resistant and provides optimal visibility.

Due to the robust build, the RM 27-01 offers a phenomenal level of shock resistance, including up to 10,000G’s via the strong suspension system. Yep, this is one of the most capable, shock-resistant models in the industry!

Due to the skeletonised design, the colour palette is inspired by the colour scheme of the Spanish flag. You may have already noticed the prominent red tipped central hands, yellow minute track, hour marker dots, along with bold red and yellow Richard Mille text at 12 o’clock.

LEARN MORE: The Top 12 Most Popular Richard Mille Watches For Men

But they go one step further. Fitted with a tourbillon at 6 o’clock to counter gravity, the watches are reliable, and perfect for flexing in your tennis chinos, or with a refined suit shirt. Accuracy is the name of the game with the RM 27-01.

Powering the hours and minutes, they offer a 45 hour power reserve alongside a 19 jewel design to ensure its smooth running.

Capped at 50 pieces, you can no longer buy a Richard Mille RM 27-01 at retail as it’s out of stock. However, you can buy it on the secondary market for upwards of £630,000 as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

Where do we start?

A truly astonishing display of Richard Mille’s technical excellence, it is capable of dominating the court and any other event in your life, making this a feat of longevity, strength and ability.

Withstand 10,000 Gs
Association with legendary tennis champ Rafael Nadal.
Avant-garde design with premium skeletonised aesthetics.

14. Rolex Submariner Ref. 126610LV

Rolex nicknames are collectors dreams. At least that’s the theory that seems to follow the secondary marketplace!

Source - Rolex

Moreover, they span across the majority of the brands portfolio, such as the Pepsi GMT-Master II, Nipple Dial, James Cameron Sea-Dweller Deepsea and more.

But, for a lot of horophiles, they want the luxury of a Rolex, with the modern case sizing and durability that allows them to flex it from hotdesking to a hot, sultry beach in Bali

LEARN MORE: The Craziest And Outlandish Rolex Nicknames Of All Time - Bart Simpson, Smurf, Pussy Galore

Enter, the Rolex Submariner Ref. 126610LV.

Defined as Starbucks, this is not your average cup of Joe.

Due to its green bezel and black dial imitating the brands logo, they are defined as the successor of the original Kermit line that died a few years ago. Sized at 41mm x 12mm and composed of Oystersteel, they are both stronger and more attractive than the standard material, as it requires the ultra desirable 904L alloy.

Supported by a monobloc middle case with triplock screw down back and winding crown, the 300 metres of water resistance allows it to be very much dive worthy.

LEARN MORE: The Best Dive Watches For Luxury Watch Enthusiasts

That’s if you want to take the plunge. For many of us, the prospect of flexing any calibre from Rolex is worthy of pulling it off in every scenario possible, and with the Rolex Submariner 126610LV, this is entirely possible.

Let’s face it, this baby has been put through its paces for decades and been seen on millions of wrists across the globe with its natural splendour.

Across the top is a unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel that’s moulded into an ultra-strong Cerachrom insert. The dark green insert allows the white numerals to be clearly distinguished, especially since the contrast makes it so easy to read. The jolt of colour is a modern touch to a classic line…and we don’t begrudge them for it!

For the face, Rolex relies on the legendary Chromalight display to ensure maximum accuracy across the board. This includes the dot and baton hour markers alongside central Mercedes hands, producing a bright blue luminescence.

The date aperture at 3 o'clock needs no lume. The Rolex patent Cyclops eye already ensures that you can view the function in any and all conceivable circumstances, as it serves to magnify the complication. If you are umming and ahhing over a Hulk, this might be the one and done for under £10,000

DISCOVER MORE: 15 Must-Have Men's Watches Under £10,000 To Make A Wrist-Worthy Impression

Housing the Superlative Chronometer certified 3235, it is a titan of the industry. Befitted with a number of Rolex patents, including Paraflex shock absorbers and a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, shocks and knocks do not impact this beauty.

Meanwhile, the -2/+2 second per day precision ties in very well with the 70 hour power reserve, allowing the watches to be strong and reliable over time.

You can buy a Rolex Submariner Date at retail for £9,450 as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

Rolex is one of those brands that everyone flocks to due to their quality, craftsmanship and legacy in the industry. It’s like a ticket to one of Elton John’s Oscars after parties.

Everyone wants to bag one.

Consequently, the Submariner acts as the blueprint for all modern dive watches, albeit it’s a tossup between them and Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms. But for this model, we have their own holy trinity of Superlative certification, iconic design, and that sought after nickname!

Technical brilliance through Rolexes Superlative Chronometer certification.
Distinctive green bezel with nickname star-power.
Perfect daily wearer with reliable 300 metres of water resistance and legible chromalight-infused dial.

15. Zenith Defy Americas Edition

Like Miley Cyrus we are about to have a Party In The USA. How So?

Hang on a tick and we will explain. The Zenith Defy line is the brand's milestone for sports watches.

Source - Zenith

First released in 1969, the Zenith Defy welcomed the El Primero, offering exceptional levels of accuracy, and being the first ever mechanical chronograph movement ever made. Capable of measuring 1/10th of a second, this was a truly magnificent piece of technical innovation.

LEARN MORE: Zenith El Primero Movement: The Epic Horological Story

The Skyline is a fairly new addition to the Defy. Released in 2022, the watches evolved the classic Defy, but retained the famous octagonal case and geometric design that has defined the series since its conception

LEARN MORE: Zenith Debuts Not One But Two New Rainbow Themed DEFY 21 Chroma II Novelties

Getting your hands on a high-quality model is not a hard task, but one model that particularly stood out is the Defy Americas Edition. Using modern materials and a fresh take on a timeless dial, this is a wonderful extravaganza!

Its 41mm x 12mm dimensions are accessible, especially since they are built into a black ceramic case. This material is both durable and lightweight, offering excellent scratch resistance and durability against knocks.

And when the going gets tough, the tough get going.

Built with the iconic 12-sided bezel, equally crafted out of black ceramic, this is seamless from top to bottom, including the sturdy crown, granting the watches a respectable water resistance of 100 metres.

For the dial, this has a tantalizing green sunburst finish with a rose star engraved pattern. Taking its inspiration from Zenith’s legendary star emblem, this aesthetic is neither gaudy or boring to look at.

In turn, it allows the rose hour markers and hands the chance to clearly stand out. Complemented with a date aperture at 3 o’clock and a 1/10th of a second aperture at 9 o’clock to boast speed.

This dial combination is unheard of from the brand, yet could be a good indicator of the “wild side” antics from Zenith. Speaking of wild, have we introduced the sensational El Primero 3620 movement?

Completely automatic, this provides a solid 5Hz beat, totalling around 36,000 VpH, and a solid power reserve of around 60 hours. This bi-directional creation is another example of why they are up there for technical prowess… by quite some distance!

Capped at 100 pieces, you can buy a Zenith Defy America’s Edition at retail for £13,900 as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

The Zenith Defy Americas Edition is a fabulous celebration of the line's excellent Defy Skyline. The watches are rare, stylish and durable, making this a top model for the gent looking to put down some cash and move away from block-colour dials and bog standard materials.

Innovative black ceramic case.
Houses legendary El Primero movement.
New dial design for Zenith, but still in keeping with subtle attractiveness.

16. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Ref. 405.028

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph was introduced in 1999, the brand's very first manual-wind chronograph watch. The line harnesses the sleek German design that epitomised the brand, but also introduced the complexity of a flyback chronograph into their lineup.

Source - A. Lange & Söhne

LEARN MORE: Here are Our Thoughts On The New A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone Platinum Watch

Defined by a triangular dial design of two counters at 3 and 9 o’clock, and a large date at 12 o’clock, the central hands sit in the centre of the dial to complete the aesthetic.

A. Lange & Söhne decided to give the line a refresh in 2024, celebrating 25 years of the line being in production. Boasting luxury materials, a limited edition count, and that attractive triangular dial display, the watches are a dream for those interested in a phenomenal statement piece.

Equating to 41mm x 13.1mm, the white gold watches are polished from top to bottom. Giving a mirror-like finish, the circular cases offer a classic dress outlook.

Given a sapphire glass back and front, the watches offer optimal legibility for the dial and calibre. Providing 30 metres of water resistance, the pieces are not great for the sea-based adventures, but are adequate for the rest of life's adventures.

The dial offers a blue rhodié finish, allowing the silvered sub-counters with a sunray finish to be clearly displayed at 3 and 9 o’clock. Granted a power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock, this handy addition is useful for needing to know when to give your model some juice.

Directly opposite is a large date aperture at 12 o’clock, pertaining to the original complications of the models.

LEARN MORE: Chrono Hunter Selects The Most Popular Blue-Dial Watches For Enthusiasts

Timekeeping is easily read via the sword shaped hands and silver applied hour markers around the edge of the dial, plus you can use the hands to read the white tachymetric scale on the periphery.

Keeping the functions steady is the L951.6. Totalling 451 parts, it offers a 60 hour power reserve alongside an 18,000VpH. Considering this powers the outsize date, power reserve indicator and chronograph functions, this is a beast of industry!

Capped at 125 pieces, you can buy an A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Ref. 405.028 at retail when you request a price as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Ref. 405.028 boasts a blue dial crafted from the finest German 925 silver, all within the confines of a gorgeous white case.

Yielding a number of functions, they are complex like the black hole theory and wonderfully finished, with sapphire back exposing the intricately finished L951.6.

Beautiful case with polished and brushed finish.
Wide face with a range of functions including chronograph, power reserve and large date.
Completely unique display of functions, style and wholly individual to A. Lange & Söhne.

17. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

The Tudor Black Bay line is inspired by the Oyster Prince Diver 7924.

Released in 1958, with 200 metres of water resistance, these watches feature a number of prominent design codes, including a big crown and domed dial and crystal. Then, snowflake hands were later spotted on the Ref. 7016 from 1969.

Source - Tudor

When the Black Bay line was released in 2012, at the same time Usain Bolt was charging to gold at the London Olympic Games, this first came charging along with a burgundy top, and totalled 41mm x 14.8mm.

These chunky dive watches evolved over time, including a Black Bay Ceramic model in 2021 with Master Chronometer certification.

So, inspired by the Tudor’s legendary Submariner line from back in 1954, to featuring high powered METAS innards, what can we expect on the 2024 Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT?

LEARN MORE: 24 hours with the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Blue M79030B-0001

With a case diameter of 39mm x 12.8mm, it has a more accessible modern sizing to suit the gent wanting the durability of the Black Bay line, without needing a tank weighing down the wrist.

Given a polished and satin-finish from top to bottom, this includes bevelled elements along the barrel shaped edges. One of the main selling points is the two-tone bezel across the top. Given a “Coke” aesthetic, this comes in both red and black accents, alongside a gilt GMT scale against an anodized aluminium insert. Perfect for that retro lover.

Granted 200 metres of water resistance, the watches are built to withstand everyday knocks, giving you the chance to flex from office to poolside. To use the dual time-zone functionality, simply refer to the added lume diamond tipped hand in the centre of the face.

This is used in conjunction with the 24 hour scale to read AM and PM times in local and away times.

If you aren’t a travelling man, simply refer to the main, central hands. With signature snowflake hands as well as lume running through the centre, don’t forget the dot and baton hour markers. Time is easily read and allows you to very quickly ascertain the time, no matter where you are or end up.

The added date aperture at 3 o’clock is pretty handy, especially since you may need to rely on reading two-different time zones at once.

Ensuring maximum reliability, the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT relies on the exceptional MT5450-U. COSC and METAS certified features an integrated GMT function, alongside a 65 hour power reserve.

You can buy a Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT at retail for £3,960 as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

Constructed for optimal durability, it is partnered with the desirable Coke top, which will quench many enthusiasts' thirst. On the other hand, you are treated to GMT functionality alongside an ultra-legible dial including typical snowflake hands and date function at 3 o’clock.

METAS and COSC certified for maximum precision.
Highly legible face with classic snowflake hands.
Multiple functions, including date, GMT and general timekeeping.

18. Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41 R17329F41G1P1

Three words for you…slide rule bezel. What exactly are we talking about?

The Breitling Navitimer is one of the brand's flagship lines.

Willy Breitling released the Navitimer in 1952 after being requested by the US Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) to create a model that could help pilots perform detailed flight calculations.

Source - Breitling

LEARN MORE: Breitling Navitimer Releases New Limited Edition Watch Paying Tribute To The End of Boeing 747

This piece fused a chronograph alongside a rotating top that featured a slide rule. Instantly becoming the go-to design for the AOPA, the Navitimers were originally released just to the AOPA, but later became available to the public to buy after 1955.

Expanding out of being a classic pilot accompaniment over the years, the Navitimer still retains its aviation legacy, but isn’t afraid of jazzing things up with some funky materials. Great timing you might say to introduce the fabulous Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41 R17329F41G1P1

Crafted out of 18K red gold, the material is actually traceable from artisanal mines. This means that it is ethically sourced, and Breitling are doing their part to ensure positive action for the environment.

The 41mm x 11.65mm case dimensions are surprisingly not that bulky, considering this is a tool designed for aviation lovers.

At least, it used to be.

The Swiss brand has since evolved the line to refresh the classic steel lineup, and give them a precious metal infusion for that added luxury. Totalling 30 metres of water resistance, the watches should be kept out of deep water, but we didn’t expect anything too high for a model of this prestige.

On the top is a functional notched top to add a modern touch to the timepieces. Polished and brushed, the material is visually stunning, and makes this a versatile execution, appealing to many.

Contrasting the warmth of the material, the face is a reflection of Breitling’s desire to push the Navitimer past the boundaries of traditional aviation watches. Gone is the chronograph function, yet they still retain the iconic slide rule on the edge of the face.

The ivory shade ensures they keep things on the low-key, and allows jolts of red on the slide-rule to be prominent. For timekeeping, simply refer to the rose hands and the baton hour markers. Given luminescent touches throughout, the watches are top choices for those interested in legibility, but don’t want to sacrifice a luxurious edge.

Pulsating within is the in-house Breitling 17 with unmatched precision. Self-winding, it uses 26 jewels for smooth operation, and offers a 38 hour power reserve and 28,800VpH. Okay so it’s not weekend-proof, but you are getting one of the most recognised watches on the planet.

You can buy a Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41 at retail for £12,400 as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

In our opinion, we feel this is an attractive choice for those interested in a line steeped in aviation heritage, but don’t want it to be the sole focus. Therefore, we have luxury, a legible face, and a strong in-house movement to keep this beauty looking modern!

Luxurious case with attractive finish.
Navitimer design codes including the famous slide rule bezel.
Adaptable aesthetic with minimalist ivory dial, but high-powered calibre keeping everything sharp.

19. TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green

TAG Heuer for many has a one watch option that many have in their new or existing collections.

After all, they were responsible for revolutionising the racing industry in 1969 with the release of their phenomenal Monaco line.

Source - TAG Heuer

LEARN MORE: 13 Best Racing Watches For The Petrol Head

Narrowly missing the spot for producing the worlds first automatic chronograph movement to the grand Zenith El Primero, TAG Heuer released the Calibre 11 in conjunction with Breitling, subsequently using it within the world's first square cased water resistant watch.

This line was popularised by Steve McQueen, as he avidly wore the line, and flexed it in the film, 24 Hours of Le Mans. Originally crafted out of steel, 2024 saw a major evolution, bringing in an exciting material and colour scheme.

Taking its proportions from the original model, the 39mm x 14.35mm case specs are beautifully rendered with a bevelled sapphire crystal and sharp case sides, epitomising the industrial feel of the watches. This is especially since they opt for a sandblasted finish from the lugs to the bezel.

Crafted out of grade 2 titanium, you will benefit from lightness and more durability than its counterparts. This allows a better fit on the wrist, especially since it is designed in quite a chunky, dynamic square, titanium case.

Surprisingly, we have 100 metres of water resistance which is great considering they are typically made for the racing industry. Therefore, it’s not mandatory to wear this to the track. In fact, you could pull this stunner off in most situations, adventurous or otherwise!

The dial is tasteful, bringing in the excitement of a sporty, British Racing green dual sub-counters design, against a sunray-brushed silver background. The yellow seconds hand works equally well with the similarly toned 12 o’clock hour marker, standing out from the polished batons.

LEARN MORE: 13 Best British Watch Brands To Put On Your Horological Radar

Given an additional date aperture at 6 o’clock, the watches entitle you to take chronograph and date measurements, while the batons have blue lume dots for legibility. Everything serves a purpose, and nothing is used to fill up space.

Utilising the very same Calibre 11, with a few modern tweaks, there are 59 jewels, and produce a steady 28,800VpH alongside a 40 hour power reserve. Powering the minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date, we think they have power aplenty, and absolutely worth your consideration as a one watch solution.

Capped at 1000 pieces, you can buy a TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green at retail for £8,150 as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green is one of the most versatile watches in the current industry. Fusing exceptional materials like titanium, along with modern green jolts and an iconic calibre, they are a collectors dream!

Exciting additions of British Racing Green.
Legendary square case, linking in with the Monaco heritage.
Updated play on one of the world's first automatic chronograph movements.

20. Omega Speedmaster Super Racing

Speeding along next comes The Omega Speedmaster Super Racing.

This indicates the first of its kind from their stable to utilise the legendary Spirate System, upon its debut in 2023.

Source - Omega

LEARN MORE: Examining The Iconic History Of The Omega Speedmaster - Chrono Hunter

To break it down, the Spirate system is a developed balance spring system, allowing the watches to produce an exceptional level of accuracy per day.

By utilising a new regulation system on the silicon balance spring, the stiffness of the spring is incrementally adjusted, allowing for an accuracy of around 0/+2 seconds per day. This puts stats like the Rolex Superlative Chronometer (-2/+2 seconds per day,) to the timekeeping sword.

As the sole model to have this heartbeat, it is a feat of horological innovation.

Measuring 44.25mm x 14.9mm, these watches are enigmatic statement pieces. Crafted out of steel, Omega relies on brushing and polishing to produce a gleaming finish, pushing these into multi-purpose territory.

Fashionable, fast and attractive? Absolutely!

Given the prominent silhouette of a Speedmaster, they feature the timeless tachymetric scale bezel across the top. This is fitted with a fixed ceramic insert, allowing the neon yellow scale to visibly stand out.

And there’s a real buzz about the dial. For this, they have a honeycomb centre, branching out to a sporty, irregular white minute track. Between them, stand prominent, yellow baton hour markers and black hands with yellow lumed centres.

The second hand has that racing feel, as it starts with a black base, fading to a neon yellow tip.

The dual chronograph display at 3 and 9 o’clock, covers a 12 hour scale while there is a small seconds counter, along with added date aperture at 6 o’clock. Keeping time perfectly is Cal. 9920.

Made in-house, this Master Chronometer certified movement has a phenomenal 0/-2 seconds per day accuracy, alongside a 60 hour power reserve. What can we say…the Spirate system will have the silicon hairsprings on your neck standing up.

You can buy an Omega Speedmaster Super Racing at retail for £11,000 as of December 2024.

Why Should You Choose This As Your One Watch Collection?

This is a grand culmination of all of Omega’s greatest achievements. We’re talking exceptional accuracy, legendary Speedmaster design and a distinctly proud, racing edge with honeycomb centre and imposing yellow hues.

Possibly the best movement in the current horological industry.
Iconic Speedmaster silhouette.
Great sporty play of yellow and honeycomb centre.

Conclusion

A one watch collection is something that is very hard to decide, purely because of the infinite amount of options to the wearer! Nevertheless, we hope we have covered every single option from the obtainable to the unobtainable and holy grail numbers.

Everyone's conception of their ultimate timepiece is different. For some people, they enjoy the thrill of a model that not only looks good, but can also match their fast paced lifestyle.

In that instance, you can do no wrong with the Omega Seamaster Bronze and Titanium. Fusing vintage Seamaster feel with an unorthodox combo of materials, the watches are built to catch eyes, and be a solid daily beater.

Of course, others may be less ‘rock and roll’, and would find their one watch to be much better suited to the boardroom and a cheeky cocktail on the private balcony.

You can do no wrong with choosing the beautiful Daniel Roth Tourbillon for optimal timekeeping, association with one of the world's greatest craftsmen, and a precious metal timepiece with a low-key aesthetic.

Regardless of what you choose, the aforementioned timepieces can suit every budget, from a few thousand to over £1 million. No doubt we have your horological back covered for all manner of scenarios and one stop choices for your collection.

Until next time…

Feeling the temptation to buy a Breitling as a one and done? Want to get so accurate that you become the go to source for all timekeeping matters? We recommend you save some hard earned hours and chat with Chrono Hunter today.

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Whether new, pre-owned or vintage, we can source a timepiece via our extensive network of contacts across all major luxury brands from Patek Philippe and Rolex to Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. The days of dealing with open public marketplaces and inexperienced dealers are over.

Receive multiple offers from our highly established network of the best luxury retailers and the option to accept an offer that fits you. Unparalleled service, unmatched brand knowledge and an exceptionally quick turnaround, all within a very secure environment.

Simply enter the details via our form or download our dedicated app, available on both Apple and Android devices.

Buy Or Sell A Luxury Watch The Smart Way With Chrono Hunter

If you are considering your new purchase or perhaps the sale of a beloved timepiece, Chrono Hunter is the smart way to buy or sell a luxury watch.

Compare Offers from the world's most reputable luxury watch retailers.

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