No, this is not the Emmys or The Golden Globes. 

But it is considered the Oscars of the timekeeping world that has as many stars as the Barbie premiere. You know what we mean. 

The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2024 has been another top spectacle for the horophile interested in all things majestic, classical, or just plain bonkers. And all the big boys rocked up to the table this year. 

Since its inception in 2001, GPHG has been overseen by the Canton and City of Geneva, and has become a hallmark of everything from Haute Horlogerie to cutting edge advancements in technology. We’ll be only looking at the winners of this year's GPHG because when you go with Chrono Hunter, the only song you need is “We Are The Champions!”

Covering the phenomenal Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription that won the Tourbillon prize, the Bovet 1822 Récital 28 Prowess 1 that emerged victorious for Mechanical Exception Prize, and a whole host of other winners, expect only the creme de la creme of the business. 

Without further deliberation, (the judges have already played their part), let’s get into all the winners of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2024! Hosted in Théâtre du Léman in Geneva, the Rolls Royce of brands came together to split silicon hairsprings and reinvent the balance wheel, in the pursuit of perfection…and the odd award.

But wait a second.

Don’t you first want to see all the winners in a cohesive table? Of course you do. It’s time to check out all the awards and the brands that picked them up.

 

GPHG Awards Board

Prize	Watch Brand
“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix	IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar
Mechanical Exception Watch	Bovet 1822 Récital 28 Prowess 1
Calendar & Astronomy Watch	Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver
Ladies’ Watch	Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Jour Nuit
Tourbillon Watch	Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
Jewellery Watch	Chopard Laguna High-Jewelry Secret Watch
Ladies’ Complication Watch	Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été
Men’s Watch	Voutilainen KV20i Reversed
Iconic Watch	Piaget Polo 79
Challenge Watch	Otsuka Lotec No. 6
Men’s Complication Watch	De Bethune DB Kind of Grand Complication
Time Only	H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel
Chronograph Watch	Massena Lab × Sylvain Pinaud Chronograph Monopoussoir
Artistic Crafts Watch	Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté
“Petite Aiguille”	Kudoke 3 Salmon
Sports Watch	Ming 37.09 Bluefin

 

“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix - IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

CEO (As of November 2024): Christoph Grainger-Herr / Most Popular Collection: Portugieser / Founded: 1868

Naturally, we had to start off with the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime 6300G of categories. 

The most illustrious award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève can easily be classified as the grand Aiguille d’Or. Hats off to IWC who stepped up with their Watches and Wonders 2024 release, the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar. 

Mind blown. Jaws dropped then, and they’ve been falling ever since!

Source - IWC

 

Right, details please!

Representing IWC’s first venture into secular perpetual calendars that can automatically account for the Gregorian calendar leap year, this fuses some intense technicality to produce a model that's a part of the very fashionable Portugieser line, but still truly a stand alone as the tour de force icon. 

Hope springs eternal as they say.

Totalling 44.4mm x 14.9mm, the platinum case is probably the only fair option for a model that's so detailed. Undergoing a polished and brushed finish, they are finished with great aplomb across the lugs, bezel and sides. 

For the dial, the snow white shade is a perfect backdrop for the polished, silver apertures and hour markers to gleam out. Specifically, we’re seeing prominent Arabic numerals alongside leaf-shaped hands in the centre. Surprisingly, the general timekeeping isn’t choked up by the rest of the functions. Yes, that’s functions, plural! These types of watches are as complex as they come.

For functionality, we see a completely new moon-phase aperture at 12 o’clock. This was the final product of computing over 22 trillion combinations of wheels, to produce a model with three wheels. This double moon is pretty accurate which has been given the seal of approval by none other than Professor Brian Cox. 

Okay, that’s an understatement, its deviation from the moon’s actual orbit will be by one day after 45 million years. Set an alarm? Who knows what Moonswatches iteration the Swatch Group will be on by then.

For the perpetual calendar at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, IWC have created an ingenious mechanism, to allow them to automatically skip three leap years over 400 years. All seen through the sapphire box crystal on the top, the subdials clearly stand out with their prominent hands and markings. 

For such a monstrous IWC piece, the ultra-powerful 52640 calibre is the sole solution. This automatic movement offers a Halloween like monstrous 168 hour power reserve alongside a 28,800VpH. Made up of 396 components and 54 jewels, we are in very safe hands. 

• You can buy an IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar when you enquire about a price as of November 2024. 

 

Mechanical Exception Watch Prize - Bovet 1822 Récital 28 Prowess 1

CEO (As of November 2024): Pascal Raffy / Most Popular Collection: Fleurier / Founded: 1822

This year's GPHG has seen a few industry revolutions and as you’ll soon discover a chorus of cheers. 

How so? Well, the Bovet 1822 Récital 28 Prowess 1 is for the user sick of twisting the crown on his timepiece. Let’s reveal the info about this wondrous winner!

Source - Bovet

 

Taking half a decade to develop, the models gave fabulous hand-finishing to detailed engraving, across the platinum case with an astonishing 46.3mm x 17.85mm. Hang on a tick. It may not be the best look for the boardroom, but it’s certainly a conversation starter when you bring it out at the horological festivals…or rock it around the Christmas tree.

Built into a circular case shape, they are big to compensate for the amount of complications and complex functions ticking within. The crown on the right is as stylish as the one fitted on the head of King Charles III… with a purple jewel on its head. Someone better tell Cartier that their Cabochon has some stiff competition!

The dial is completely openworked, revealing the extent of the amount of complications within them. With legible aventurine rings on the inner and outer ring of the off-centre face, this almost lunar aesthetic clearly defines two time zones from local time to the hour and minute hand in the centre, and the outer ring of 24 cities on the edge for the away time. 

These cities offer alternative UTC, AST, EAS and EWT time zones, as altered by the crown, making them rotate each of the cities by 90 degrees, while letting them have 4 different time zones set. Offering a world first in the horological world as daylight savings is no longer a problem for different countries, no matter where you are, or the period of the year, you will be like that lethal 1990 hit by Black Box…

Right on time

For the perpetual calendar, the date, leap year and month are displayed on rollers. Once they reach the last day or month, they instantly roll back while the other indicators roll forwards. Fitted with a patented function isolator, this is an exceptionally clever innovation as it means the perpetual calendar can’t be corrected while they are changing. 

The prominent tourbillon at 12 o’clock is Bovet’s patented double-side flying tourbillon with an altered escapement and balance wheel cage for maximum style points. Ticking over inside is the R28-70-00X. This hand-wind calibre totals 744 components, offering an 18,000VpH, a whopping 10 day power reserve and a host of functions that will keep you waiting up until midnight to see the alterations!

• You can buy a Bovet 1822 Récital 28 Prowess 1 at retail for around £627,240 as of November 2024. 

 

Calendar & Astronomy Watch Prize - Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver

CEO (As of November 2024): Vanessa Monstel / Most Popular Collection: Classic Auto / Founded: 2009

Frank Sinatra may have flown us to the moon, but our next winner will definitely let you play among the stars. 

We’ve already seen some pretty impressive astronomy and calendar watches already, so what makes Laurent Ferrier’s sensational Classic Moon Silver take home the prize in the category of best Calendar and Astronomy?

Source - Laurent Ferrier

 

The Classic Moon to Laurent Ferrier is the brand's grand summation of meticulous lunar functionality, classic looks and ultra-legible calendar features. The time is certainly now as this brand is taking off faster than Apollo 13. Since 2009, they have been setting the horological sky ablaze thanks to winning the 2010 GPHG award for the Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Balance Spring.

While it may not be the best for everyday ventures, the Classic Moon Silver is a best dress watch, and of course now, an award-winner! Crafted out of 18K 5N red gold, the specs are 40mm x 12.90mm. Offering optimal sizing for the suit-wearing gent, it is elegance personified. We recommend you flex this as often as you can, either in the office or at those special occasions. You know we like to ensure you look tip-top.

Polished from top to bottom, the eyes are instantly drawn into the face. Given a silver, satin-finished shade, the faint vertical lines allow the Roman numeral and hands to be clearly displayed. Given a date ring on the periphery, the red date hands point directly to each date, while the white gold hour and minute hands are equally clearly displayed. 

Featuring a dual aperture display below 12 o’clock, this covers the day and the month. At 6 o'clock there is a magical moon-phase display. Interestingly Ferrier’s very first attempt at creating the complication with an annual calendar in one model. 

First timers luck at winning the Calendar & Astronomy award? Maybe not, as the subtle correctors at 10 and 8.30 o’clock alter the day and moon respectively, indicating that Laurent Ferrier has kept everything low-key, yet easily accessible. 

Inside the models beats the reliable Calibre LF126.02. This manual-wind movement offers a 21,600VpH alongside an impressive 80 hour power reserve. That’s pretty remarkable for a slender 6.30mm and 266 component system. 

• You can buy a  Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver at retail for around £71,370 as of November 2024. 

 

Ladies’ Watch Prize - Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Jour Nuit

CEO (As of November 2024): Nicolas Bos / Most Popular Collection: Poetic Complications / Founded: 1906

The horological world is traditionally a male dominated sphere.

However shout out must go to the ladies whose flexing skills are quickly exploding as much as the searches when googling Andrew Tate. Nevertheless, Chrono Hunter has remained ahead of the curve by fitting that special woman with a model that could be a contender for one of the best ladies watches for Christmas…or any other occasion for that matter!

Source - Van Cleef & Arpels

 

For GPHG, Van Cleef & Arpels stepped up to claim the achievement with their Lady Jour Nuit. Offering luxurious stones and soft curvature. You’d best get your cash out because this will likely be going, going, gone!

Known for their borderline-lucid creations, including the Midnight Planetarium that allows you to set an arrow to a special date, and the earth emblem points underneath a specially engraved star. Or how about the Bouton d'Or automaton, with its automated fairy dancing on a flowerbed?

Falling under the collection of Poetic Complications, you don’t have to recite any Keates to warrant strapping this beauty on. At a super sleek 33mm x 12.1mm, the white gold watches are about as luxurious as you can get. We would comment on the polishing on the sides and lugs, but that is quickly superseded by the sensational display of diamonds across the bezel and lugs. 

For the dial, we have total elegance. Coming in aventurine glass across the top, with a blue-painted motif on the bottom, this harsh contrast is perfectly executed to keep a celestial theme on the top, and a planet-earth aesthetic on the bottom. 

There are diamonds present against the aventurine aesthetic, mimicking the stars, the moon and a prominent, yellow gold sun. And this piece shines bright no question about it. To clarify, there’s a total of 252 diamonds (4.42 carats).

With two hands in the centre, time is read in a very unusual way. The face is actually a 24 hour disc that rotates, with the yellow gold sun indicating the daytime and diamond moon imitating the night time. 

Running speedily like a racing car, the self-winding mechanical Valfleurier calibre has a 36 hour power reserve and 28,800VpH. Completely luxurious and the perfect fit for that dress you save for those exclusive events or suave dinner parties, this is a piece to look out for!

• You can buy a Van Cleef Arpels Lady Jour Nuit at retail for £82,500 as of November 2024. 

 

Tourbillon Watch Prize - Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription 

CEO (As of November 2024): Daniel Roth / Most Popular Collection: Tourbillon / Founded: 1988

Daniel Roth celebrates 35 years since the brand's inception with a throwback to the original design of its incredibly popular tourbillon, released in 1988. 

Source - Daniel Roth

 

Therefore, we see a combination of a circle and a square, producing the legendary double-ellipse design that Daniel Roth innovated. We heard Bell & Ross are in tears! Designed to allow maximum exposure to the tourbillon complication, it also has enough breathing room for the rest of the dial to be prominent.

The inspiration from the original 1988 model runs deep, to the point where the dimensions mimic the same lengths and widths of the original. With only a slightly altered lug display, Daniel Roth ensures that vintage themes run thick through this model.

Crafted out of yellow gold, the 38.6mm x 9.2mm dimensions are polished throughout, including the ultra-prominent bezel and thick crown on the case side. 

The face similarly comes in yellow gold. Built onto a plate of similar material, this is the product of both Roth and the guys over at Voutilainen’s workshop. Finished with a sublime Clous De Paris guilloché aesthetic, this is another direct influence of the original modus operandi. 

The 925 silver aspects take up the majority of the bottom portion and the centre of the face, covering the Roman numeral hour markers, with an unorthodox three track 60-minute complication. Simply refer to the central hands to read the hours and the minutes. 

Running at speed is the in-house Calibre DR001. Manufactured in the lauded La Fabrique Du Temps, this is hand finished, but hidden by the face. Rest assured though we can admire its bold  "côtes-de-Genève" aesthetic. The 80 hour power reserve and 3Hz is pretty good to us! This in our view is a genuine statement piece and head turner…bar none and deserved of its GPHG award.

• You can buy a Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription at retail for around £125,175 as of November 2024. 

 

Jewelry Watch Prize - Chopard Laguna High-Jewelry Secret Watch

CEO (As of November 2024): Karl-Friedrich and Caroline Scheufele / Most Popular Collection: Alpine Eagle / Founded: 1860

The Chopard Laguna High-Jewellery Secret is like the toned down brother of their most expensive Chopard 201 Carat model. However, it’s still bedazzling and likely to give you a headache if you stare for too long!

Source - GPHG

 

As a part of the brilliant Red Carpet collection, we predict that you can flaunt this on and off it while stealing the show! This exclusive line is a whimsical collection of crazy creatures and flowers that’s infused with the finest Haute Horlogerie. 

For the case design, the mixture of white and pink gold results in a truly magnificent, golden display. Displayed in a clam inspired aesthetic with a pink gold bracelet, they are exceptionally avant-garde. Yes, you probably noticed the jewels making up the rest of the fabulous sea-shells so we’ll break it to you for a minute. 

There are 18.66 carats of diamonds and sapphires in total. Dazzling doesn’t come close. 

This secretive design is a maritime dream. Completely creative, this is a 1-piece limited series, hinting at the absolute rarity of the model. The shell of the clam rises from a pearl clasp, exposing a fabulous face. 

Requiring a staggering 1000 hours to design, this miniature face is showered with jewels, including pink sapphires in the centre, and interjecting diamonds between them. Time is read via the prominent hour and minute hands. Truly, we don’t think we’ve seen anything that pushes the boundaries of watches and jewellery like this. 

The jewels, totalling, 10 carat sapphires, 4.28 carat topaz, 1.63 carat natural pearl, 1.47 natural emeralds and 1.28 carat diamonds, alongside a demantoid and mandarin garnet are about as precious as you can get! Chopard ensures to keep things ticking over with a simple quartz calibre, running both hours and minutes. 

• You can buy a Chopard Laguna High-Jewelry Secret Watch at retail for around £697,400 as of November 2024.

 

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize - Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été

CEO (As of November 2024): Nicolas Bos / Most Popular Collection: Poetic Complications / Founded: 1906

As the ultimate flexer for summer, the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été is exceptionally well presented with enough feel-good vibes to turn your rainy days, sunny! This is akin to the Claude Monet of watches in its presentation and overall execution which is breathtaking. 

Source - Van Cleef & Arpels

 

Available in a 38mm x 13.15mm white gold case, the circular design is emblematic of the classic dress model. Yet this is undoubtedly much more luxurious than your standard white gold novelty.

Designed with a diamond infused bezel and lugs, we will see more of the precious jewel dotted around the model, resulting in a total carat figure of 3.64. As a part of the poetic complications line, this is more of a timepiece that will make us sing with joy, rather than lament in a muddy field. 

Inspired by clear summer mornings (we’re getting a little Grand Seiko here), the faces are crafted using the prestigious plique-à-jour enamelling technique. This produces a translucent effect and is exceptionally hard to make due to its complexity, and with a high failure-rate. 

With no formal hour and minute hands, they have a dual, yellow and navy butterfly display that circles the face, alongside the triple flower head seemingly blowing back and forth in the breeze. Heck, this is wristwear for the sixties hippies!

With the blades of green grass below covered in tsavorite garnets, the two butterflies are used to tell the time, by circling the retrograde styled hour display at the top portion of the face, with interjecting diamonds making up the odd hours. Keeping all of this wondrous creativity in a constant flow, is the self-winding Valfleurier calibre, powering the rotating face and keeping those butterflies in constant flight. 

• You can buy a Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été at retail for around £151,075 as of November 2024. 

 

Men’s Watch Prize - Voutilainen KV20i Reversed

CEO (As of November 2024): Kari Voutilainen / Most Popular Collection: Masterpiece / Founded: 1995

This time round we are going to flip reverse things a tad. You’ll see what we mean in a second. The Voutilainen KV20i is a stunning product from the fabulous Finnish watchmaker, Kari Voutilaninen. 

Winning GPHG Men’s Watches in 2023 for his world timer, would you believe it, he’s come back again with another win for this year!

Source - GPHG

 

Totalling 39mm x 13.38mm of platinum, they are perfectly finished with a polished aesthetic from top to bottom. Offering just 30 metres of water resistance, it’s best to keep this away from the water, but let it take centre stage in the office or chatting at that champagne bar. 

It really is all about the calibre guys. Therefore the front is completely openworked, exposing the intricacies of the components, while allowing the prominent central hands to be displayed. There’s no exclusive hour markers, but the track on the solid periphery is a pretty good indicator of the hour and interjecting minutes. 

The KV20i is completely designed and assembled within the Voutilainen workshop. Everything from the single arm balance wheel bridge to the large in-house balance wheel are on show, allowing us to see how the hands are altered and powered. 

The calibre utilises two escapement wheels, allowing the balance to receive a direct impulse, providing maximum efficiency without using excessive energy. This enhances the power reserve and the stability of the model, which can only be a good thing!

From the main plate and expertly finished bridges, crafted out of German silver and perfectly finished by hand, this includes the screws that affix everything together. The calibre itself is made backwards, allowing us to enjoy the beauty that’s typically stuck to the wrist. 

Flip this over to see a sub-dial that covers the small seconds. We did say back to front, right? Yielding a weekend-proof 60 hour power reserve and 18,000VpH, the manual wind calibre is a top compadre to this overtly avant-garde model that’s well over the six figure mark. 

• You can buy a Voutilainen KV20i Reversed at retail for around £120,477 as of November 2024. 

 

Iconic Watch Prize - Piaget Polo 79

CEO (As of November 2024): Benjamin Comar / Most Popular Collection: Polo / Founded: 1874

Looking like the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222, but infinitely more luxurious, this Piaget Polo 79 is a clear winner of the Iconic Watches category at Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. 

They have been shaking up the industry for quite some time. Let’s show you why!

Source - Piaget

 

Back in 1979, the Piaget Polo 79 indicated a youthful and exciting dynamic for a fresh breed of horological lover. Think, Patek Philippe’s 1997 Aquanaut or Breitling’s 1964 Top Time for similar collections suited to the period of time they were produced.

Celebrating 150 years since the brand’s birth in 1874, the Piaget Polo 79 has been revitalised to celebrate the achievement. Well, they do say that yellow is the colour of the winners medal, so it makes sense why Piaget Polo 79 is dolled up in this stunning hue. 

Sized at 38mm x 7.45mm, the yellow gold watches only offer 50 metres of water resistance, but they earn that back in style points. Its small dimensions make it the understated accessory of this year for Chrono Hunter, if that was ever an award!

Seamless from top to bottom, the gadroon effect runs throughout the piece, including the front, case and integrated bracelet. There’s no distinction for a good reason..because there are no lugs. 

For the face, they are limitless in their luxury. Boasting sword-shaped yellow gold hands and an ultra readable dotted minute track on the periphery, the face is minimalist, but allows you to easily read basic timekeeping functions on this three handed wonder.

Through the sapphire caseback, we can stare into the strong 1200P1 in-house calibre. Offering a decent (ish) 44 hour power reserve and beating at 21,600VpH, the hours and the minutes will not die on you anytime soon! For traditional, timeless looks from a top Swiss luxury watch brand, you cannot go veer too far off the wrong path.

• You can buy a Piaget Polo 79 at retail for around £61,215 as of November 2024. 

 

Challenge Watch Prize - Otsuka Lotec No. 6

CEO (As of November 2024): Jiro Katayama / Most Popular Collection: Lotec / Founded: 2008

Ah, the Challenge award. Maybe not as grand as the Aiguille d’Or, but still a phenomenal achievement that seeks to celebrate those affordable, but still ultra-desirable, models well under £5000. Well, the Otsuka Lotec No.6 is a stonewall winner in our humble view!

Source - Otsuka

 

As a Japanese brand, Otsuka could easily be dwarfed by mega-brand Grand Seiko. However, this independent brand by Jiro Katayama has quickly developed into one of the trailblazers of “going it alone”. Making just 180 models a year, this is ultra exciting. 

For this year's GPHG, Otsuka took home the Challenge trophy for his bold and futuristic looking Lotec No.6. At 42.6mm x 11.8mm of solid steel, these industrial watches appear like something falling off the craftsman’s lathe or what you might find on George Jetson’s wrist. 

But hold the phone. It is actually an extremely avant-garde model with an unorthodox circular case with an inverted circular face. In this way, it is given nice circular brushing and a crown placement at 2 o’clock. 

For the face, we see a vertical brushed, rhodium plated aesthetic behind a fan shaped glass. The dial is actually screwed onto the movement, allowing the bezel and face to remain at the same height. 

To read the time, simply refer to the hour and minute hands that are situated at the bottom of the face. These move from left to right, covering a 12 hour retrograde scale on the bottom, and a 60 minute scale above. Ever seen anything like this before? They even give us a date aperture at 4 o’clock for an added complication!

The Japanese text confirms the lineage of the models which translates to the following;

• “Made by OTSUKA LOTEC”
• “No.6 Mechanical"
• “Toshima, Tokyo” 
• “Water-Resistant”, 

Mind you, the 50 metres of water resistance is a strange thing to brag about… but we won’t hold it against them! Fitted with the Miyota 9015, this offers a 28,800VpH, 40 hour power reserve, and a total of 26 jewels to ensure a seamless beat. And for the price of a pre-owned Tudor Black Bay, it’s time to perhaps consider venturing down a different rabbit hole. 

• You can buy an Otsuka Lotec No.6 at retail for around £2,025 as of November 2024. 

 

Men’s Complication Watch Prize - De Bethune DB Kind of Grande Complication

CEO (As of November 2024): Pierre Jacques / Most Popular Collection: DB Kind of Two / Founded: 2002

In 1986, Queen proudly declared “It’s A Kind Of Magic”

But there’s nothing mysterious about our next GPHG winner. Far from it. The Men’s Complication trophy is a fabulous representation of the most ingenious models that offer top functionality with exceptional legibility. 

De Bethune are the horological cream that has risen to the top with this award, thanks to their sensational DB Kind Of Grande Complication.

Source - De Bethune

 

Taking a mind-boggling 22 years of research and development (4 years shy of Sir Alex Ferguson’s reign as Manchester United manager) before its construction, the De Bethune timepiece was carefully crafted in their L’Auberson workshops, and released early this year to a rapturous crowd. 

Totalling 43.3mm x 13.85mm, the grade 5 titanium material capably deals with the bulbous case size due to its inherent lightness. Yet, don’t think for a millisecond that durability is neglected. Titanium is actually stronger than steel!

Available in a rounded case, this is unusual as it is actually double sided. This allows for a host of complications to be featured, without them all being crammed onto one side. Think Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and their swivel case mechanism. In this instance, the case is fixed onto floating lugs, allowing it to swivel, alongside the movement itself. 

Buffed to a perfect reflective sheen like the Zenith Defy Extreme Mirror there is lots of polishing across the entirety of the model. We expect the folks in the boardroom and your clients will hail you as a horological hero for wearing this beauty!

For the faces, a navy side reveals a shimmering effect, imitating a night sky. Note the hand-placed white gold pins referencing the stars and a Milky-Way, created by lasers and micro-milling. 

This side bears a perpetual calendar, displayed through a dual day and month aperture, a separate date sub-counters at 9 o’clock, not to mention a leap-year indicator alongside a spherical moon-phase indicator. Fitted with a minute ring on the periphery and a Roman numeral hour marker display, refer to the central golden hands for general timekeeping. 

On the flip side, we see an openworked display, revealing a solid cream 60-minute scale on the edge with central hands in the middle of the face. The tourbillon at 6 o’clock ensures the effects of gravity are negated, and the central hands allow you to read the time. Just to get the complication count up, they’ve introduced a power reserve at 9 o’clock too!

Keeping everything steady is the Calibre DB2529. Running at an astonishing 36,000VpH (that’s Zenith El Primero territory!), we have a 96 hour power reserve, alongside sublime silicum escapements for stability. Completely skeletonised, this is a revolutionary mechanical movement. 

• You can buy a De Bethune DB Kind of Grande Complication at retail for around £358,322 as of November 2024. 

 

Time Only Prize - H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel

CEO (As of November 2024): Edourard Meylan / Most Popular Collection: Heritage / Founded: 1828

When the Rolling Stones declared “Time is on my side”, us enthusiasts were convinced that they were referring to time only watches.

Think again.

For GPHG 2024, they have done away with maximalism and kept things classically low-key. Like the opposite of the band!

Source - H. Moser & Cie

 

For this award, they cannot boast any complications that don’t refer exclusively to time. However, H. Moser & Cie steamrolled this award with their fabulous Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel. 

Combining high-performance craftsmanship with the bare necessities of timekeeping, they have stripped back everything by curating a model that will likely be on the wrists of every CEO up and down the country. Trust us, refinement and sleekness doesn’t quite cut it. 

Crafted out of steel, we have a modern case diameter of 39mm and a sub 11mm thickness (10.9mm). There is a fabulous sunburst-brushed finish emanating across the bezel in keeping with the classic Streamliner design codes here. Despite a discreet allure, it leaves a wide-open face.

By the way, you still can enjoy 120 metres of water resistance.

H. Moser & Cie take a gold base and display an aqua shade over the top of it. By combining a number of pigments, they are hammered onto the base, resulting in what is known as an ombré effect. Finished with a Grand Feu aesthetic, each face is completely unique. 

Given prominent syringe style central hands with thick ultra-legible Globolight central batons, these work in tandem with the polished, applied markers around the edge of the model. Fitted with a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock, this allows for exceptionally accurate timekeeping.

Through the exhibition caseback, we can bear witness to the HMC 500. Made completely in-house, this offers a 74 hour power reserve, alongside a steady 21,600VpH. This mechanical movement utilises their legendary pawl winding system to ensure optimal precision depending on if you are strolling beach side or in time for that late night rendez-vous.  

• You can buy an H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel at retail for around £26,800 as of November 2024. 

 

Chronograph Watch Prize - Massena Lab × Sylvain Pinaud Chronograph Monopoussoir

CEO (As of November 2024): William Massena / Most Popular Collection: Archetype / Founded: 2018

Turning up to the 2022 GPHG, Sylvain Pinaud won the Horological Revelation award and has since become a staple of the industry. 

However, this indie brand has decided to pair up with the space-age Massena Lab to produce GPHG’s Chronograph Watch winner, the Chronograph Monopoussoir. 

Source - Massena Lab

 

And this is as infectious as COVID. The level of detail from both the brands is an indication of just how precious and exceptional it actually is. Built almost entirely by hand in the hills of Sainte-Croix, Switzerland by Sylvain Pinaud, there’s only 10 models available so you’d better move quickly!

Measuring 42mm x 11mm in titanium, these watches will not be too arduous on your wrist. In fact, we predict that this could be your next everyday buddy, especially since it offers useful functions together with a refined design. 

Boasting a dual sapphire crystal display, we see both the front and the back of the timepiece with clear legibility. The dial has been imported by legendary watchmaker Kari Voutilaninen, (yes, him again!) under his brand Comblémine SA,. Its granular, silver mainplate reveals an off-centre face based at 12 o’clock alongside an openworked movement on the bottom portion of the face. 

The dark grey shade displays a 12 hour Arabic numeral ring, alongside central hands for easy reading. You may have to take a moment to spot the chronograph counters. Integrated to the movement, they are hand-finished and displayed against the openworked portion of the calibre. 

We didn’t doubt the capabilities of Sylvain Pinaud. Having won the Meilleurs Ouvriers de France for his original chronograph back in 2019. Crikey, only work with the best, Massena? Viewable directly through the crystals, witness the sensational hand-wing movement designed by the man himself, responsible for other sensations like the Origine with its asymmetrical dial and bulbous chronometric wheel. 

The column wheel chronograph is hand-finished, offering a steady 18,000VpH, alongside a 45 hour power reserve that’ll keep you speeding along for nearly the whole weekend. Well, you can’t have everything can you?

• You can buy a Massena Lab × Sylvain Pinaud Chronograph Monopoussoir at retail for around £116,500 as of November 2024. 

 

Artistic Crafts Watch Prize - Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté

CEO (As of November 2024): Nicolas Bos / Most Popular Collection: Poetic Complications / Founded: 1906

You’ll no doubt be swept off your feet with the next award. 

Artistic crafts are exceptionally desirable for watches. Heck, some lines are complicated, such as Vacheron Constantin’s Metiers D’ Art, or Rolexes' plethora of motifs like palm, bubble or jigsaw dial aesthetics. However, it was Van Cleef & Arpels that stepped up to claim GPHG’s Artistic Crafts with some really off the wall styles!

Source - Van Cleef & Arpels

 

The Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté is designed out of white gold. Completely polished, the 41mm x 11.65 design codes grant the watches that ultra dressy exclusivity befitting the President’s Ball or other swanky shindigs. To be fair, the 30 metres of water resistance doesn’t exactly chime a bell of dive-like capability! To define this as the Jim Morrison of GPHG is not doing it justice as you will see.

Inspired by flora and fauna, the dials are a total psychedelic dream of flowers and fairies, intermingling cohesively with one another, but without any one part taking centre stage. That is reserved for the sun shaped face. 

The golden orb with striking, polished gold rays, displays two central hands to cover general timekeeping. To break it down, we see a number of nature themed aesthetics, including leaves, flowers and a floating fairy. In total, we see 308 diamonds, 94 sapphires, 54 spessartite (a type of garnet), and 13 turquoise. That’s over 6 carats of precious rocks, and an added 13 turquoise stones!

They rely heavily on plique-à-jour enamel to produce each transparent theme, and allow the jewels to be the main focal point. From strong greens to gentle pinks and purples, they are well-deserving of the Artistic Crafts award. Of course, this is nothing without the heartbeat, the Calibre Q474. This has an albeit modest 38 hour power reserve, matched with a 21,600VpH to keep the hours and minutes in check. But we are digressing from the visual theatre that’s truly captivating…as is the price!

• You can buy a Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté at retail for £340,000 as of November 2024. 

 

“Petite Aiguille” Prize - Kudoke 3 Salmon

CEO (As of November 2024): Stefan Kudoke / Most Popular Collection: HandWerk / Founded: 2005

Gone fishing? Well don’t depart yet as we have a real catch of the day befitting an award. 

The Petite Aiguille essentially means the best watches valued between 3,000 CHF and 10,000 CHF. Now that German-based Kudoke and their 3 Salmon has picked up the award, what makes it worthy of such an award? 

Source - Kudoke

 

At 39mm x 10.3mm in steel, they are polished across the lugs, bezel and sides. The 50 metres of water resistance isn’t fabulous which may make some blush a shade of pink. Nonetheless, it indicates their preference for formal occasions over more sporty events. 

As a part of the HANDwerk collection, we see a classic circular case. But indie brand owner, Stefan Kudoke decided to present a wholly unique way of reading the time. On the one hand, the dial is split into two segments, a salmon dial on the lower half with the brands logo, and silver plate on the top, revealing the timekeeping functionality. 

To read the minutes, refer to the large central, blue steel hand that points to the upper dial ring. This moves in a classic clockwise motion which is not too different from your typical everyday driver. In this instance though, the hour hand is where things get a little bit interesting. 

The hours are split into three waved shaped tracks on the top of the dial. Fitted with a hand that has three arms, it is designed in different lengths to cover each of the tracks. When one hand reaches the end of the hour scale, the next arm appears at the start of the next scale. 

This ingenious method of reading time is remarkably practical for such an unorthodox design. While this is more preferable to the purist, we think this is a revolutionary play on standard horology!

Keeping everything in check is the manual-wind, in-house Kaliber 1. Pulsating at 28,800VpH calibre with a 46 hour power reserve, it is reliable and consistent. Visible through the sapphire camelback, you can check out the luxurious hand-engraved balance cock and frosted finish wheel bridge. We think there’s definitely nothing fishy about this winner.

• You can buy a Kudoke 3 Salmon at retail when you request a price as of November 2024. 

 

Sports Watch Prize - Ming 37.09 Bluefin

CEO (As of November 2024): Ming Thein / Most Popular Collection: 27.02 Collection / Founded: 2017

At GPHG 2023, the last winner was the formidable Tudor Pelagos 39mm. Well deserved, it represented the turning point for small dive watches, and we wrote an in-depth article on it that you can view here.

Source - Ming

 

But, times have changed and Ming have exploded past all the other competition to win the revered Sports trophy. 

Still keeping with the dive legacy of the previous GPHG winner, the 37.09 Bluefin is perhaps the best nautical inspired model of recent years. 

The sporty 38mm x 12.8mm dimensions are crafted into a solid steel case. Frankly, 600 metres of water resistance is nothing to sniff at and is on par with the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean. However, they employed a few techniques to reach this impressive number. 

Given additional gaskets, alongside thicker sapphire crystals, they are polished and brushed in alternating styles to produce a model suitable in taking the rough and tumble. You’d not be using it right if you didn’t try that 600 metres of water resistance at least once, so get down to the beach or snorkel with added pride. 

Requiring two years to develop and design, the sport-worthy Bluefin uses an internal timing bezel as opposed to a classic outer bezel. The sealed crown at 4 o’clock just needs a push to rotate the entire dial in a 60-click motion. Moving in one direction only, you will not accidentally move the bezel, especially since it’s internal anyway. 

The dial’s graduated dial looks very futuristic, especially that graduated finish from black to navy, aqua blue edging and a contrasting white ring and neon blue minute track. You’ll never look so sharp when in the waves!

Keeping everything reliable is the mechanical Sellita SW300.M1 calibre. Offering a 50 hour power reserve and hacking seconds capability, we can see you flexing this in the boardroom, or making the most of its water resistance on your private yacht. 

• You can buy a Ming 37.09 Bluefin at retail once you apply for the waitlist on their website. 

 

Conclusion

Hold your horses, we’re almost finished!

We’ve listed all the winners of GPHG 2024, ensuring every victor has their say in full print, why they deserved to win, and the details from each execution. But, do you know which would suit your wrist best?

If you are a chap who loves flexing his technical know-how, we cannot recommend anything better than the De Bethune DB Kind of Grande Complication. Boasting a perpetual calendar and moon-phase on two dials, this ticks all the boxes!

On the other hand, if you are wanting a completely new dress timepiece, take a look at the winner of the Iconic category, the Piaget Polo 79. Crafted entirely out of yellow gold and completely seamless in its design, this is a perfect addition to any formal wardrobe that will stand up to ahem...the big boys. 

For ladies, you may have been bowled over by the spectacular Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été. Ultra-complex and teasing every fan with the range of jewels and shimmering finishes, this is a top choice for the modern woman. 

Whether immense complexity, uber attractive aesthetics, or something a little different (mentioning no names, Bovet 1822 Récital 28 Prowess 1!) there are enough success-stories to have you chanting, “The Winner Takes It All.”

It’s been emotional, but it’s time to draw a horological curtain for now…until 2025

Feeling like you need to buy one of these winning watches? Looking to purchase a new timepiece quickly while enjoying peerless service, fast turnaround and a plethora of the best luxury brands?

Lucky for you, Chrono Hunter gives you the freedom to select from an impressive array of high quality offers via our carefully curated network of the finest luxury retailers. All of this is conducted within our one of a kind online platform and app that’s second to none, giving you 100% authenticity, safety and security like no other. 

If you are still undecided, we recommend you contact us here to find out how you can save money on your next purchase or sale. Based on true market value, our market leading portal means you can benefit from not one but numerous offers from our exclusive network of the most trusted luxury retailers. 

With a stellar reputation, demonstrated by our array of 5 star reviews on Trustpilot, we understand the secondary market like no other and understand the importance of such high value transactions. Buy or sell through us speedily across a range of major luxury brands like Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe as well as Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Cartier and more, with the best possible buying or selling experience.  

 

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Further Reading: 

Complete Guide To Buying A Second Hand Rolex

 

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