Question Time: Are Hublot Watches A Good Investment?
Buying a watch can be a daunting experience if you are an experienced collector. Decisions, decisions, decisions. This is especially true for major luxury watch brands like Hublot. You may find there are some critical questions which you simply need answering otherwise you’ll totally self-combust;
- What Are The Most Popular Hublot Watches?
- Do Hublot Watches Have Resale Value?
- What Are The Most Popular Hublot Watches To Invest In?
If buying a Hublot has become a critical part of your agenda and you know your Classic Fusion from your Big Bang, look no further. Why not take time out from your busy schedule as today, we reveal if their watches are a good investment.
Encompassing brand history, the best watches to put on your horological radar and whether or not the Nyon outfit holds value and is worthy of an investment, we shall leave no stone unturned in our pursuit to give you the most accurate information.
Considered by many as the Marmite of the sector, are they a leading fashion brand or horological faux-pas?
It’s time to saddle up for a journey into horological investments...
Hublot - Brand History
Created by Carlo Crocco in 1980, he was the first man to combine rubber with precious metals under the new “Classic” line. The “Art of Fusion” soon then became a telltale sign that you were in possession of the brand.
Art of Fusion linked to their interest in combining materials, such was the release of the first model which combined rubber with gold.
Taking inspiration from the French word “Porthole”, the brand title is actually a design code that’s become a staple of the circular design of their luxury watches. Developing Big Bang and Classic Fusion lines, they have expanded into the realms of celebrity link ups.
They have been adorned by a range of celebs, including the likes of Kylie Jenner and Jay-Z who has his own collaborative Classic Fusion timepiece.
How could we miss the gift from Beyonce for Jay-Z’s 43rd birthday, The $5 million Big Bang, encrusted with 1,282 diamonds. The brand is worn by Dwayne Wade, Kobe Bryant and Usain Bolt.
Having joined the titan LVMH group in 2008, housing brands like TAG Heuer and Zenith, they have become one of the conglomerates that hold 75% of the market share, including Rolex, Swatch Group and Richemont.
Independently, they do not reach the top brands in terms of revenue, as opposed to brands like Cartier which has around a £2.5 billion turnover and Omega with a £2.2 billion turnover.
However, that isn’t an overwhelming factor that determines the resale value of the watches. Don’t let your heads drop for a second, Timelords!
Carlo Crocco - Source - Ticino Welcome
Carlo Crocco - Background
Carlo left the giant Binda Group dynasty back in 1976 in order to trailblaze a new path for horophiles. He originally made “Breil Watches”, a luxury brand that emanates from Binda that covers watches to jewellery.
Moving from Italy to Switzerland, he then started his venture with Hublot.
Featuring the first ever rubber strap, the watch debuted in 1980 and became a raging success. However, they came to be the brand today largely in part down to Jean-Claude Biver.
Legend in timekeeping circles due to his role at Blancpain, he became CEO of Hublot and developed the ‘Art of Fusion’ tagline that has followed the brand ever since.
As such, a range of wacky materials such as carbon fibre and ceramic became regular aspects of the timepieces. There’s nothing wrong with this as it pioneered many other brands to start utilising these materials.
Should we tip our hats already? Let’s hang on a tick for now.
Perhaps the biggest and most recognisable line of their portfolio is the Big Bang line.
Released in 2005, they are noted for their bulbous case sizing and won the 2005 Design Prize during the highly sought after Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix event and a host of other awards like Best Oversized Watch during Watch of the Year in the Middle East.
They may be a horological brand, but they know how to flaunt their stuff in other industries like sport. Linking in with the Euro 2008 and the FIFA World Cup, they have become over the years connected with brands like Manchester United and Bayern Munich.
It’s not all football either, as they have joined other disciplines such as Formula One, cricket and basketball.
There’s an argument that they latch onto these events to boost sales as they appeal to a wider target audience. Let’s remember though that other big brands like Rolex also employ these tactics as they sponsor everything from tennis, golf, equestrianism, motor sport and yachting!
Other lines like the King Power were released in 2009, developing further with the bulky case sizing that made the Big Bang so popular. Crocco eventually sold them to LVMH in 2008 but allowed Biver and companion Ricardo Guadalupe to remain.
Releasing their first imposing UNICO movement in 2008, the in-house movement represented an instantly recognizable design feature as the column wheel is adorned onto the dial. Partial skeletonisation anyone?
Nowadays, the lineup looks better and better with each release. From The Classic Fusion to the Spirit Of Big Bang, they continue to innovate with exciting materials, keeping us ravenous horophiles on our toes.
Most Popular Hublot Watches
The watches have become huge parts of the horological world. This is because the designs of visible screws and circular cases have become instantly recognizable in the Classic Fusion line alongside the tonneau case shaping of the Spirit Of Big Bang.
No matter, Chrono Hunter knows how to decipher the best from the best. Here are the top 3 lines that may be worth considering as an investment.
Hublot Classic Fusion
This is the ultimate representation of the brand, as it’s the first ever watch released in 1980 when Ronald Reagan was elected President, Star Wars Episode V – Empire Strikes Back was released and Bjorn Bord became Wimbledon champion.
Shawn Carter Model - Source - Mr Luxury
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The original watch was noted for a large round bezel that was bolted with screws and fitted with an integrated rubber strap. Keeping the dial entirely low-key, they have combined precious metal lustre with moody rubber, blending the practical with the simply divine.
This subsequent innovation earned the “Fusion” title.
After Biver took the reins and released the Big Bang, he opted to blow everything up in size and make them statement watches. The subsequent result was a brand that simply was a horological canvas for the most obscene and yet entertaining designs possible.
Starting with rubber straps, the brand uses red ceramic, sapphire cases and their own materials like Magic Gold. Innovative or gimmicky? We’ll let you decide.
Following this craze of strange materials and pioneering designs, Biver decided to take the edge off and go back to basics with the Classic Fusion collection. Mirroring the more minimalist designs from the 1980s, this line appeals more to the gent that doesn't need the world to know he has the brand.
Running across three hand models like The Original Yellow Gold 42mm, you could opt for a chronograph model like the Chronograph Titanium 45mm, a moonphase version like the Aerofusion Moonphase King Gold 42mm or the “Orlinski”, a result of their collaboration in 2017 with French artist Richard Orlinski.
Take that Cyril Kongo.
The Orlinski is an avant-garde play on the collection, utilising Audemars Piguet Royal Oak octagonal bezels and crumpled paper style dials. Available in classic or chronograph styles, it’s nice to see that they are not resting on their laurels.
Worn by collaborator Jay-Z, his version is made out of black ceramic and 3N Yellow Gold. Capped at 250 pieces, you could be in possession of a Hip-Hop inspired piece that features a Shawn Carter logo cut into the dial and the oh so stylish 6 screw bezel style.
You can no longer buy a Hublot Classic Fusion Shawn Carter as it’s been discontinued. It sells on the secondary market for around £10,900 for the black ceramic and £12,000 for the yellow gold edition at the time of writing.
Hublot Big Bang
We’ve mentioned that The Big Bang was the biggest thing (literally) to happen to the horological world since Daniel Craig flashed us his unseen white dial Omega Speedmaster.
Black Magic - Source - Hublot
Exponentially blowing the brand into the realms of popularity, the title is very fitting for the explosive effect the collection had on enthusiasts.
Instigated by newly joined Biver in 2004, he was the perfect man to get them rocking since their original stardom with the initial rubber and precious metal combo.
One year later in 2005, he launched the collection at Baselworld as a hopeful flagship to the brand. Following the same design codes as the original 1980 model, the porthole bezel style is maintained alongside the visible screws.
Earning the award for Best Design at Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève the same year as its release, the line now features a plethora of crazy materials, including magnesium and carbon fibre. Forget chalcedony, this is totally out of this world.
How can we not mention the brand's very own Magic Gold concoction?
In the modern era, The collection is simply an umbrella for the vast range of lines beneath it. From the smart watch stylings of the Connected to the blend of their visible column wheel, in-house movement in the UNICO line, we are spoilt for choice.
How about the stunning complications line that boasts wild tourbillon functionality in sapphire casing like the Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem 44mm?
You could land the MP-11 Power Reserve 14 Days Sapphire 45mm which features an astonishing power reserve in an avant-garde case. Crucially it is the partnerships line that features models like Sang Bleu II Titanium Pavé which worked with tattoo icons Sang Bleu.
This has a prominent titanium angled case combined with a bezel and 3D effect lined dial imitating a tattoo. You can buy a Hublot Sang Bleu II Titanium Pavé at retail for £39,800 as of February 2024.
How about the Meca-10 line which features openworked dials and materials like King Gold, ceramic and titanium?
We particularly like the Meca-10 Black Magic which is crafted out of black ceramic and features a sturdy black rubber strap. Trust us, there is no hocus pocus going on here.
Offering a whopping 10 day power reserve, you can buy a Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic at retail for £20,800 as of February 2024.
Hublot Spirit Of Big Bang
We’ve already covered the history behind the legendary Big Bang. Need we remind you of the large case alongside the instantly recognisable six screw design?
Gold Crystal - Source - Hublot
However, they decided to fulfil their innovative name by adding a Spirit update. No, there ain’t no ghostly goings on…far from it. First unveiled in 2014, the style is maintained, but in a way that is completely separate from the classic lineup. How, you ask? Join us to find out!
The collection is characterised by a circular case. The Spirit variation instead features a tonneau case reminiscent of a Richard Mille. The screws still remain, totalling six and built around the bezel.
There are four extra, split as two on either side of the integrated strap.
The dials range from skeletonised to avant-garde, including far flung aesthetics like the Titanium Dragon 42mm. Celebrating The Chinese New Year, the dial is given a painted Dragon design as provided by artist Chen Fen Wan.
Crafted out of titanium and given a scale style rubber strap, you can buy it at retail for £25,400 as of February 2024.
The Spirit Of Big Bang imitates the same lines as the original collection.
It features chronograph models like The Essential Grey 42mm that's made from titanium, Meca-10 models like the Titanium 45mm which has a 10 day power reserve and tourbillon models like The Carbon Sky Blue 42mm that is made from carbon fibre with sky blue micro-glass fibres.
A model that we really admire is the Gold Crystal 42mm. Crafted out of black ceramic, the dials feature natural gold flakes that are made from heating 24 carat gold until gaseous.
The temperature is subsequently reduced to achieve the crystal effect. Who needs chronograph functions!
You can buy a Hublot Spirit Big Bang Gold Crystal 42mm at retail for £25,400 as of February 2024.
Do Hublot Watches Hold Value?
Some of their watches retain value as long as you have held them for a considerable period. But this is model or reference dependent coupled with desirability.
Investment value is dependent on a number of factors including the level of supply and demand, exclusivity behind the watches and of course that old adage…rarity. After all, the rarer the model, the higher the level of desirability, pushing the price up.
Tourbillon Only - Source - Bangkok Post
Generally, vintage models will not let you down in terms of holding value. However, a picture is not always so pretty! For more common watches, they will on average lose around 40% following the first year of depreciation.
This is quite significant when compared to other brands like Rolex which yields a 6% increase each year while Patek Philippe sees a circa 10% rise each year.
They aren't the only ones who don’t match the prowess of the horological legends. IWC loses around 40% from the first year of depreciation and Cartier, which does not hold value well, depreciates around 35% post retail.
However, they are in an even stranger position. The Nyon company is very keen to release a vast range of limited edition watches, perhaps more so than any other brand.
This means that the air of exclusivity behind these pieces drops as they are incredibly common. This is in stark contrast to Omega’s rare limited edition Speedmasters and James Bond inspired Seamasters.
Therefore, can these limited edition timepieces be quite so valuable in comparison with their common predecessors? The watches are built to a very high standard.
Despite only being around less than five decades, they have a great history of innovation coupled with a solid background in craftsmanship and technical skill.
Releasing around 60,000 timepieces a year, totalling around 150 boutiques, they are quite a scarce brand in comparison with Tudor which releases 200,000 watches a year and Rolex which touches approximately 1 million watches.
Looking for the best figures possible at resale? Vintage and exceptionally rare pieces are the way forward! One such model is the Big Bang Tourbillon Only Watch.
Crafted out of both clear and orange polished sapphire, the dial is entirely skeletonised and supported with orange decals like Arabic numerals and hands.
Fitted onto a classic rubber strap in orange, this 45mm piece is powered by the Calibre HUB6035. Offering a 72 hour power reserve, it’s skeletonised to keep with the see-through aesthetic.
It doesn't power any chronograph functions, but runs a powerful tourbillon. Capped at a solitary piece, it sold at a Christie’s auction in 2021 for around £289,500.
Sometimes, vintage pieces are the ones that can yield good figures upon resale. One such model is the prototype Big Bang “Bale 05”. The Big Bang line was launched in 2005 at Basel Fare, the exact year that this prototype was released.
Donated by Jean Claude Biver for a charity auction for Cancer Research, the Big Bang chronograph was built in ceramic and steel which was one of the earliest Big Bang chronographs. It sold at Phillips auction in 2020 for around £28,800.
Best Hublot Watches To Invest In
The best watches to consider as investments are dependent on a number of factors. In the majority of cases, it's those that are either rare, discontinued or vintage.
Orlinski Only Watch - Source - Hublot
After all, the concepts of supply and demand have become essential across every type of industry. Do you think a vintage sports car with a limited supply would not only hold value but yield better investment figures than a common motor car that’s freshly released? We don’t think so!
Speaking of cars, one example of a very rare timepiece is the MP-05 LAFERRARI 905.JX.0001.RT. As a collaborative piece between Ferrari and Hublot, they are designed to celebrate the incredible history behind the luxury sports car.
Crafted out of three sapphire crystals that are secured with 4 screws and total 48mm width, the crystals are crafted in the shape of a car which is given a smooth aesthetic.
Designed with a HUB9005.H1.6 calibre, it’s built out of 637 parts and offers a 50 day power reserve that’s rounded off with a tourbillon. The MP-05 LAFERRARI 905.JX.0001.RT sold at a Christie’s auction in 2020 for around £201,000.
You don’t need to land a vintage piece in order to garner a good investment figure. One such model that we need to mention is the Tourbillon Sapphire Orlinski Only Watch. Sized at 45mm in the iconic shaping, the Orlinski style incorporates an octagonal bezel.
However, this model is made out of sapphire crystal and features a white gold bezel fitted with 54 baguette-cut topazes.
The HUB6021 is exposed as it's a skeletonised movement. There’s an added bonus with this watch as it gives you a free pass to meet Richard Orlinski at his Paris Art Gallery. How generous! This was sold at a Christie’s auction in 2019 for around £217,200.
One more model? The Big Bang Minute Repeater Tourbillon 304.PX.1180.LR is 44mm of 18K pink gold. Crafted into a tonneau case shaping, the dial features applied pink gold baton numerals and a bezel fixed in with six titanium screws.
The movement is skeletonised and features a tourbillon movement alongside a skeletonised minute repeater. Capped at 10 pieces, one watch sold at a Christie's auction in 2015 for around £149,000.
It appears that one thing is very clear. Your standard watch may not offer a great figure upon resale. But if you have the luck to land on a vintage, desirable or very rare model adding in supply and demand, you could yield an excellent resale value figure.
Most Expensive Hublot Watches
Most of us Timelords may not have the spare change to keep up with this headline, but that won’t stop us from identifying the most expensive Hublot watches! Below are the top three novelties that may blow your horological socks off:
- The $5 Million Watch - Released at Baselworld 2012, this watch is the definition of flex appeal. Given to Jay-Z by Beyonce for his 43rd birthday, this gorgeous timepiece features an incredible 1,282 diamonds and allegedly took around 14 months to craft.
- Big Bang Tourbillon - Introduced in 2011, this tourbillon model boasts around 638 diamonds with a total of 142 carats. Built into the classic shape with the complexity of a tourbillon movement at 6 o’clock, they are valued at around £2.3 million.
- Black Caviar Bang - Who needs smoked salmon when you can dine on caviar? Crafted out of white gold, the watch would suffice as it is. However, they are perpetually seeking to evolve their style, eventually resulting in them totalling around 531 black diamonds across the case and bezel. They are valued at around £785,600.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do Hublot Watches Gain Value?
Generally, the watches do not gain value but some have the ability to gain value. Averaging around a 40% depreciation in value, they are miles away from other brand retention values like Rolex, Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe. Not quite investment titans…
However, if you land on a rarer timepiece, these are more likely to increase in value as they have less supply and more demand. Furthermore it’s not as if they are isolated in their depreciation.
It’s generally understood that most brands and watches across the horological board will lose value. For example, Breiting loses around 50-60% with Tudor dropping 30%.
What Type Of Person Wears A Hublot?
Well, they are a very polarising brand that may yield two kinds of responses from people. They either love it or hate it!
They have not been around very long. Originally released in 1980, other brands like Vacheron Constantin have been ticking along since 1775 with the lineage to back it up with Blancpain in existence since 1735!
While some horological purists will shake their fists ferociously, we would mention brands like Richard Mille who have rocked the scene since 2001. And how about Franck Muller which opened its doors in 1991?
They can be worn both for sporty and dressy occasions depending on your model.
It’s an exciting brand that mixes and matches materials to continuously push the boundaries of horology. We can see only the most interesting and fashion bending gentleman adorning this brand with more personality than Conor McGregor and Drake combined.
Worn by a range of celebs, including Floyd Mayweather, Usain Bolt and Jay-Z, it appears that the glitterati are flocking to the brand. Wear your model with pride…it’s a brand worn by the upper echelons of society that oozes sleekness, opulence and a dash of rule breaking.
Why Are Hublot So Expensive?
They utilise only the best materials possible in order to craft their timepieces. They break away from traditional horology and fearlessly blend components and different materials, as per their “Art of Fusion” tag line.
They are highly technically advanced too, resulting in releasing watches with incredible power reserves like the MP-10 line and with awesome skeletonised tourbillon functions like the Tourbillon Automatic Black Magic 45mm.
Some models are bejewelled to the nines with the best diamonds and precious metals around. Models like the Big Band Steel Diamonds 38mm feature an impressive 126 diamonds on a steel case, not to mention a quartz power reserve that can last from 3 to 5 years.
That’s right…we said years.
Associated with Hollywood circles like Kylie Jenner and Dwayne Wade, the brand has a cult celebrity following which adds an extra element of exclusivity to the timepieces.
The iconic designs of the circular bezel and visible screws have become staples of the brands portfolio and are instantly recognizable.
What Is Special About Hublot Watches?
They are not like any other brand. They do not conform to the classic ways of watchmaking, instead deciding to trailblaze as per their first release which combined rubber with precious metals.
Furthermore, astride all of the innovation, they feature incredibly popular designs which have a circular shaping secured with visible screws, alongside an integrated rubber strap.
It’s rare that a brand can be so popular, yet be completely individualistic when compared to other brands. Featuring off-the-wall watches like the $5 million dollar piece that is linked with recognised celeb Jay-Z, they are associated with social icons yet are accessible to the general populace.
Representing the unconventional with a hint of rebellion, they are to some the Sex Pistols of the industry.
Do Hublots Lose Value?
Unfortunately, the watches do tend to lose value so they are not great investments as a whole. It’s estimated that they lose around 40% within the first year. However, that’s an industry standard, unless you are a brand like Rolex, Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet.
Is A Hublot More Expensive Than A Rolex?
At retail, it can be argued that they are more expensive than Rolex. The lowest price for the model is around £5,100 for the Classic Fusion Titanium Green 33mm. The lowest price for a Rolex is around £4,850 for the Oyster Perpetual 28mm.
However, this does not take into account a number of factors, including the wait times behind them, prompting more people to venture to the secondary market to pick up a piece.
Rolex watches tend to be more in demand meaning there will be more purchases on the secondary market, where prices are at a premium when compared to retail.
They do not have this demand and therefore will be cheaper on the secondary market and not hold value.
We can therefore assume that when accounting for the secondary market, Rolex is more coveted thanks to several factors including brand exclusivity, desirability and market value.
Conclusion
We’ve reached the end of today’s Question Time article.
However, before we venture any further and start tying up loose ends and chamfered lugs, it’s integral that we answer the very critical question: Are Hublot watches good investments?
They have been swiftly rising to the top of the horological pile ever since their initial release back in 1980.
Developing from the incredible combination of precious metals with rubber straps, they have today still retained their classic design, complimented with a fresh update of technical features.
Despite them retaining their circular case shaping with visible screws and the minimalism of the Classic Fusion line, they have continued to push their own boundaries, releasing jewelled up beauties like the Big Bang One Click Steel Diamonds with 42 diamonds and the incredible MP05 LaFerrari with a stonking 1,200 hour power reserve.
Focusing on high quality materials, including their in-house Magic Gold material, they have become a staple of many celebrities' wardrobes, allowing the brand to become a top player in the horological kingdom.
Don’t expect your current timepiece to hold value or yield phenomenal figures upon resale. You need to land a vintage, desirable or very rare piece to see those kinds of figures!
Utilising ambassadors like Usain Bolt and Kylian Mbappé, the brand has a strong fingerprint in the sporting world, helped by their role as the first watchmaking brand to sponsor football in 2006.
We don’t think they are the fresh faced losers with nothing yet proved. Joining the ranks of Richard Mille and Franck Muller, these young boys have time on their side.
So, have you been persuaded to consider Hublot as an investment? Have your eye on a Big Bang or Classic Fusion? Well, we recommend you find yourself the ultimate platform to source such a brand.
May we recommend… Chrono Hunter?
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Further Reading:
Question Time: Is The Rolex Gmt “Root Beer" A Good Investment?
Are Blancpain Watches A Good Investment?
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