Table of contents:

A Collection Of The Best New Watches To Buy In 2024 - Cartier, MB&F

Good morning, Timelords! Today we are taking a trip back in time… Well, maybe not that far. The focus is to uncover the best new watches of 2024 and what really makes them tick.

Covering the finest luxury brands from Cartier to Swiss underdogs like MB&F and Italian Stallion’s Bulgari, we do not discriminate when it comes to laying down the stats and facts behind the top timepieces this year.

We will scour through Watches and Wonders as well as Geneva Watch Days 2024 not to mention a host of the best luxury watch events that every ardent enthusiast should firmly have circled on their timekeeping calendar.

Whether your purse strings stretch to less than £5,000 or under £10,000, or way more than that, we have your wrist covered. If you want to venture down the rabbit hole and discover a world of technical mastery, want to get into the hobby, or would like to buy a watch for a new or existing collection, we have all the bases covered.

So without further ado, let's get straight into it.

Longines Master Collection Steel and 18K Gold

The Longines Master Collection was originally released in 2005 to include all the vintage design codes of the brand such as circular cases and polished bezels, alongside modernised movements and colour schemes.

Source - Longines

The latest Longines Master Collection Steel and 18K Gold is a highly fashionable play on the collection, giving users the luxury of precious metals, alongside the affordability of stainless steel.

Heck, we know all about the price of gold. We even wrote a clever little article covering how Rolex have increased the prices of their gold models which you can view here!

Sized at 40mm x 9.35mm, the steel and yellow gold timepieces are very easy on the wrist due to the slight design. This is thinner than out-and-out dress models like the Omega De Ville Hour Vision with its 13mm thickness, or the Zenith Elite Moonphase with a slightly higher 9.4mm thickness.

Trust us when we say you are certainly in the thick of it for first rate reporting and up to the minute goings on, as reported on our myriad of high ranking articles via our Chronicles.

Crafted out of steel on the case, lugs and the back outer ring, this piece features text identifying the Master collection and a meagre 30 metres of water resistance. Not great, but this is after all a dress watch like the H. Moser Pioneer lineup!

The yellow gold features are spotted on the crown and the large polished bezel that clearly stands out from the steel material. Fitted with a steel and yellow gold bracelet, they feature the precious metal throughout the entirety.

Fitted with a silver-toned face on a sandblasted base, they are kept exceptionally minimalist. This allows the engraved Arabic numerals to be clearly displayed, especially since they feature gold inserts that stand out from the silver. Fitted with a tilted flange, this allows the black minute track to be clearly displayed, allowing more maximum precision.

Pulsating within is the rapid L888.5 calibre with a strong 25,200VpH alongside a 72 hour power reserve. Fitted with 21 jewels, there is a silicon balance-spring to ensure maximum accuracy and longevity.

You can buy a Longines Master Collection Steel and 18K Gold at retail for £3,350 as of September 2024.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Rose Gold

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Rose Gold is a complex celebration of the fabulous Carrera lineup. Following the energetic Porsche 963 tie up where all 963 watches sold out like hotcakes, this was a mere taster of what was to come next in 2024.

Source - TAG Heuer

Dating back to 1963, The TAG Heuer Carrera is rich in race-filled history, under the very first reference 2447 when it was released at Basel Fair. It was created to celebrate the Panamericana race that saw cars racing from border to border across 2km of arduous Mexican terrain.

Fusing the Carrera and the Porsche 911, the Carrera line is highly sporty, but for this latest Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Rose Gold piece, they go one step further. With more sculpting than Auguste Rodin, there is plenty of DLC titanium going spanning the pushers, crown and other elements.

Built into a highly durable 44mm x 15.1mm rose gold case, they are definitely a statement piece to be flashed with a suit or when flexing in the boardroom. Given chamfered edges alongside polished lugs, they feature black DLC elements on the pushers and crown.

Across the top is a large black DLC bezel. This allows the rose gold tachymetric scale to be clearly displayed from the black bezel. This means wearers can measure speed, adhering to the race inspired spirit of the models.

For the face, it’s given a domed sapphire crystal that allows the face to be magnified. With an openworked aesthetic, note the rose gold hour markers with luminescent centres that are clearly displayed, alongside the hands which contain lume strips.

Around the edge is a rose gold minute track that stands out from the black flange and openworked azuré sub-counters. This 3, 6 and 9 o’clock display lets the rose gold rings to be clearly shown, while their chronograph functions are easily accessed. The date function at 6 o’clock is a fancy feature, especially since the entire date scale is visible from the skeletonised face.

The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport is also a brand new release from TAG Heuer. Priced at £28,600, it follows the same rose gold casing as the above and is fitted with a tourbillon as opposed to the date function at 6 o’clock.

What makes these pieces so reliable? The in-house automatic calibre, TH20-00 is fitted with a vertical clutch and column wheel, resulting in a powerful 80 hour power reserve, 28,800VpH, powering all the special functions like the ¼ second, 30 minute and 12 hour counters.

You can buy a TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Rose Gold at retail for £10,750 as of August 2024.

Blancpain Air Command 42mm Green

Stand to attention for a second as we introduce the next best new watch to buy in 2024.

The Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph is inspired by the original Type 20 from 1950 that was made for the French Ministry of Defence. Steeped in aviation influences, they were later released to suit the American military pilots.

Source - Watchcharts

Fast forward to 2024, The Blancpain Air Command has been refreshed again, this time with a hot material and a fabulous colour. First, statistics…

With a case diameter of 42.5mm and a 13.7mm thickness, there is grade 25 titanium which is the finest grade material with maximum durability, a stunning lustre and a top class lightweight properties.

30 metres of water resistance is nothing to shout about, but since this isn’t the classic Fifty Fathoms diver, a little wiggle room can be given to let its true purpose be boasted.

Fitted with two pushers on either side of the crown, the functions are easily noted as being of the chronograph variety. More on that shortly. Around the top is a black bezel with an inverted 60-minute scale, meaning there is 45 at 3 o’clock and 15 at 9 o’clock

The face is given a military green shade, that being a dark green colour that allows the tropical, vintage inspired numerals and functions to stand out. Similar to the H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic, wouldn't you say? Boasting Arabic numerals around the face, this is encased within a minute track and tachymetric scale.

The flyback chronograph takes up two sub-counters at 3 and 9 o’clock, as they match the rhodium hands with their luminescent centres. So, what makes this complex piece tick?

Thanks to the Calibre F388B, it produces a Zenith-like 5Hz and a weekend-proof 50 hour power reserve. After all, there’s nothing worse than not keeping to time. This is supplied via the silicon spring and balance, alongside the vertical clutch and column-wheel. working to produce complete accuracy.

Affixed to a green leather strap and capped at 200 pieces, you can buy a Blancpain Air Command 42mm Green at retail for around £18,000 as of September 2024.

Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph 26399NB.OO.D009KB.01

From the humble beginnings of the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 back in 2018,this underrated series by Audemars Piguet has been a bit like Marmite for some enthusiasts.

It has been desperate to try and get this line in the same ballpark as the legendary Royal Oak. If that is even possible.

Source - Audemars Piguet

However they came pretty close with the stunning Code 11:59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph. Yielding a duo of complications alongside the avant-garde spirit of an openworked face, these are not for the faint-hearted.

Measuring 41mm x 13.8mm of black ceramic, this modernised material sets the perfect scene for what these have to offer.

But why stop there? AP decided to ramp things up a luxurious peg or two with a white gold bezel, offering a high contrast distinction between the two materials. Given a satin-brushed finish, these two materials could be, if you will, a do-si-do of avant-garde aesthetics and timeless luxury.

For the open-worked face, this produced a new material and rose gold hands with lume tips. There are no formal hour markers on this. Instead you will need to look to the black flange to see a 60-minute scale. The two sub-counters at 3 and 9 o’clock offer 12 hour and 30-minute functions, alongside the equally exposed, 60-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock.

For accuracy and longevity, Audemars Piguet opt for the reliable 2952 calibre, producing a steady 3Hz and a strong 65 hour power reserve. Viewable through the sapphire caseback, the watch's self-winding movement is optimal for the avid horophile on the move.

You can buy an Audemars Piguet 11:59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph at retail upon requesting a price as of September 2024.

Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding 4600E/000R-H101

The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix line is only a fairly new venture from the legendary Swiss brand. Produced in 2018, it draws inspiration from the stunning ref. 6073, released in 1956 and remains the predominant design code of this collection.

Source - Vacheron Constantin

However, Vacheron Constantin didn't remain lost in the past (or space) for too long. For 2024, they’ve brought forth a fresh rendition of the Fiftysix, befitted with a precious metal case.

Sized at 40mm x 9.6mm, the pink gold timepieces are built into a barrel shape, with beautifully curved lugs and polished finishes across the models. This is accentuated with a recessed crown on the right side of the models. The sapphire box crystal stands proud, allowing for maximum legibility in all situations.

Water resistant to just 30 metres, perhaps this isn’t the best bet for the dive watch purchaser, but for everything else, this is a great choice if you want to buy one of the best new watches. The pitch black face is given a unique design in the form of interjected Arabic and baton markers in rose gold. Meanwhile, the batons are coated with luminescence, just like the centres of the hands.

The white inner ring and minute track on the periphery offer relief from the black and gold design elements. For us though, they stand out especially well against the beautiful sunburst finish.

Within the models beats the Calibre 1326. This automatic movement is originally inspired by Cartier’s very fashionable ébauche movement, but undergoes some of Vacheron Constantin’s arduous tests like the accuracy being tested in five positions.

The 142 component calibre produces a 28,800VpH alongside a 48 hour power reserve, meaning you are good to go for that all important keynote speech or overseas shake-hands European business meeting that can be done in a day.

You can buy a Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding at retail when you request a price as of September 2024.

Grand Seiko Heritage 37mm “Icefall” SBGH347

No, we are not here to talk about James Bond and Skyfall.

This is more a case of Icefall. Now it’s been two decades since the original release of the Spring Drive Calibre, the legendary 9R that, for the first time in Spring Drive history, combined automatic winding with a 72 hour power reserve.

Source - Grand Seiko

However, we would be remiss if we failed to mention the importance of the Grand Seiko 9S calibre. First released in 1998, they were built into a 37mm case and featured high powered mechanical movements.

Despite marking its 25th anniversary last year, Grand Seiko always likes to delay a party, and thus, we say hello to the striking Grand Seiko Heritage 37mm “Icefall” SBGH347. But this is not the icing on the cake.

Coming in at 37mm x 13.3mm, they are very reminiscent of the classic 9S models. Crafted out of ever-brilliant steel, the pieces are expertly finished with their signature Zaratsu polishing that allow both sharp facets and angles to be promoted.

Ever-brilliant steel is one of the most corrosion resistant steel alloys in the current industry. Producing a bright white hue, they, especially when combined with Zaratsu polishing, produce a truly spectacular lustre.

Secured with a screw-down caseback and secured crown, these watches are capable of producing 100 metres of water resistance. That means withholding a genteel splash when racing for the last minute train or light snorkelling if you are taking this baby for a summer or winter vacation.

For the face, Grand Seiko yet again turned to their culture and environment, celebrating Japanese heritage with great aplomb. And you know they know how to rock horological metaphors that get many giddy.

Icefall is a title that’s cooler than a Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier. Tying in with Mt Iwate’s winter atmosphere, it has a sharp, ice blue shade that’s complemented with a fabulous vertical brushed finish. This allows the faceted steel hour markers and sword shaped hands to be clearly displayed. The date aperture at 3 o’clock offers an extra level of complexity to the models.

Viewable through the sapphire back, we are treated to the super strong 9S85 calibre. Expect a rapid 5Hz alongside a 55 hour power reserve. Secured with a 3 link ever brilliant steel bracelet, we can see you flaunting this with a black suit for those powerhouse meetings.

You can buy a Grand Seiko Heritage 37mm “Icefall” SBGH347 at retail for £5,950 as of September 2024 when it’s available in October 2024.

Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Sandstone

Laurent Ferrier is one of the new boys on the block, and was created by an amateur ace driver and watchmaking veteran, Laurent Ferrier. Founded in 2010, they have continued to evolve and produced the race-infused Classic Auto collection.

Source - Laurent Ferrier

This all-encompassing everyday line has horophiles like Kylie Minogue… Spinning Around with excitement, due to its presence in the Serie Atelier lineup. This essentially contains the elite pieces from the brand such as the Porsche 935 Turbo 40 for the Sport Auto.

Released at Geneva Watch Days 2024, the Classic Auto Sandstone is housed within a timeless circular case. Crafted out of steel, this is completely polished, resulting in a stunning finish. Fitted with a domed sapphire crystal, users can clearly see into the face. The large crown on the right is slightly ridged for easy grip, allowing you to alter the date or the time with ease.

Given a sand coloured shade, the vertical brushed finish allows the hour markers, hands and date aperture to be clearly distinguished. Furthermore, the railway track on the edge of the dial is displayed above the satin-brushed ring.

The hands and hour markers are made from polished white gold, allowing them to visibly standout. Furthermore, the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock adds an extra level of detail to the pieces, allowing for exceptionally accurate time readings.

Through the sapphire back, users can view the calibre LF270.01. Offering a power reserve of 72 hours alongside a steady 4Hz, they are finished well with a timeless Côtes de Genève finish. What a way to perform at Geneva Watch Days 2024.

Connected to a beige leather strap, you can buy a Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Sandstone at retail for around £44,315 as of September 2024.

Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon

Our next best new watch comes from Geneva Watch Days 2024 which saw the release of the Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon. Famed for their three bridge design and tourbillon, the La Esmeralda has a strong lineage in the horological world.

The Paris Olympics may well be over, with the only bells ringing out inside Notre-Dame but this brand is renowned for winning awards themselves. Achieving gold at the Paris Universal Exhibition 1889, the Esmerelda is a collection with a huge lineage!

Source - Girard-Perregaux

In 2024, the La Esmeralda Tourbillon is a grand celebration of the iconic line. Following the same design codes of the original 1884 pocket watch, this classic model was fitted with three horses and sold to the Mexican President via a retailer called, La Esmeralda. In summation, this is pure luxury on the wrist with absolutely no horsing around!

With a case diameter of 43mm x 15.1mm, these ravishing rose gold pieces are exceptionally precious and boast a stunning lustre due to the polished finish throughout. Given hand-engraved leaf motifs on the case, lugs, bezel and the buckle, these design themes are emblematic of the free flowing design codes of this Maison.

Fitted with triple arrow shaped hands across the centre of the dial, these are thoroughly polished to keep in conjunction with the case and the bezel finish. Remember the horses from the original 1884 pocket watch? These are showcased on the two bridges, namely the first and third bridges.

However, the equine love doesn't stop there! Flip this beauty over to see a solid pink gold back that's engraved with three horses over a Grand Feu enamel material over an exaggerated sunray finish.

Time is read via the large hands in the centre. However, there are no hour markers which means you will have to rely on your mental clock positions to judge the hands. The tourbillon at 6 o’clock is a fabulous addition, as it negates the effects of gravity and adds a wondrous design feature.

Through the sapphire back, users are privy to the GP09600-2083 calibre. Yielding a steady 21,600VpH alongside a 50 hour power reserve, they provide optimal accuracy for wearers. Affixed onto a brown calfskin strap, we can picture you flanting this with a sandstone suit, or a soft burgundy jumper when relaxing in that .

You can buy a Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon at retail for £381,000 as of September 2024.

Bulgari Aluminium GMT x Fender Limited Edition 10411

If you were tuned into Geneva Watch Days 2024, we are certain you noticed the Bulgari Aluminium GMT x Fender Limited Edition.

Source - Bulgari

Taking design cues from the legendary Fender guitar brand, Bulgari decided to celebrate the 70th anniversary of their Stratocaster six stringer, since its initial release way back in 1954.

For this watch, Bulgari doesn't sell themselves completely to the Fender brand. They looked back to 2020, wherein the release of the Bvlgari Aluminio at Geneva Watch Days 2020 which featured large Bvlgari text on the bezel and strap. However, this is Geneva Watch Days 2024, and we are here to celebrate a fabulous new release!

With a case diameter of 40mm and a sleek thickness of 9.7mm, they are crafted out of aluminium. This unusual material is exceptionally light, and while steel is stronger, aluminium is arguably a more attractive material due to its tasty colour and lightweight properties.

Fitted black DLC titanium coated elements on the crown and the back, they are designed to be slinky on the wrist. Their 100 metres of water resistance is pretty good considering they are designed to be flexed in all circumstances.

Taking inspiration from the classic Fender Stratocaster, the bezel is given a deep, brown shade and the classic Bvlgari logo text. For the dial, they produce a stunning dark brown shade that goes from a light centre to a darker periphery.

Given a GMT scale that runs around the edge of the face, this shows a 24 hour scale in AM and PM colours, with PM being dark brown and AM being cream.

Time is read via the combination of Arabic and baton markers alongside the black hands with lume tips. The GMT functions are read seamlessly via the extra orange GMT hand. Powered by the BVL Calibre 192 with a rapid 28,800VpH and 50 hour power reserve, the watches movements offer longevity and excellent accuracy.

You can buy a Bulgari Aluminium GMT x Fender Limited Edition 10411 at retail for £3,970 as of September 2024

Longines Legend Diver 39mm L3.764.4.96.6

The Longines Legend Diver line is a continuation of the famed Diver 7042 from 1959 when Fidel Castro rose to power and the first automatic camera was invented.

For the mathematicians, it’s exactly 65 years since its release, and therefore Longines have treated us to a fabulous Legend Diver in a very accessible 39mm case.

Source - Longines

At 39mm x 12.7mm, the watches are crafted out of steel and given a combination of a brushed and polished finish. Be it the chamfered edges to the polished lugs, everything is displayed meticulously to catch the eyes of the buyer.

Furthermore, if you want to buy one of the best new watches with trusty ISO 6425 certification, this is the top choice. Capable of reaching 300 metres of water resistance as per the Rolex Submariner, this is very strong, yet doesn't yield completely to the dive style. This can still be worn as an everyday beater due to its hot new dial.

Given a domed sapphire crystal, users are treated to a magnified display of the rich, terracotta dial that allows the baton hour markers and hands to be clearly displayed. Given lume centres, they can be seen via a quick glance or a loving gaze.

Since this is still a dive watch, users can utilise a diving scale around the periphery of the pieces. Showing a 60-minute scale on the edge with a triangular marker at the top, the date aperture based at 3 o’clock is a useful feature.

Inside the models is the COSC certified L888.6 automatic. This means you are entitled to one of the top Swiss certification bodies, ensuring quality and accuracy in the movement. Beating at 25,200VpH and producing a 72 hour power reserve, the watches are rapid and capable of going the distance.

You can buy a Longines Legend Diver 39mm L3.764.4.96.6 at retail for £3,100 as of September 2024.

Daniel Roth Tourbillon

Daniel Roth began flexing his timekeeping muscles in 1989 and was later adopted by the top Swiss watch brand, the Bulgari Group. Representing one of the very few independent watchmakers in the current industry, they have a special place in the hearts of many horophiles due to his enduring presence.

Source - Daniel Roth

So, as an ode to the original C187, Mr Roth’s fabulous tourbillon piece produced from 1988 to 1994 has seen a re-imagination at Geneva Watch Days 2024. Welcome the new successor, the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold. An unusual case shape takes centre stage that gives a total new dimension to the piece.

Totalling 38.6mm x 9.2mm, in polished rose gold there are very small lugs hooking up the beige leather strap, and wide rectangular sides which sit alongside curved tops.

For the dial, Daniel Roth has decided to keep things seamless with an equally solid rose gold dial with prominent vertical lines, contrasting the exposed silver mainplate at 6 o’clock with its fabulous Geneva stripes.

Time is read via the Grandfather clock styled face at 12 o’clock. Fitted with Roman numerals and black hands, this is equally vintage and shows off the old-school vibe that’s more retro than a classic cars meetup

The scales below relate to the small seconds counter that stands over the openworked tourbillon. It’s an unusual way of doing things, but Daniel Roth had clearly made an indelible mark on what watchmaking can be…outside of the conventional designs.

But as you know, it’s good to stand out, especially if you want consumers to buy one of the best new watches in 2024 that’s caused more of a buzz than the Omega Speedmaster Super Racing 44mm Chronograph, complete with honeycomb dial.

Daniel Roth’s latest temptation is home to the Calibre DR001. This movement has been created by none other than La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Boasting 19 jewels, a steady 3Hz and a solid 80 hour power reserve, the movement is not as rapid as the Zenith El Primero, nor can it go the distance like the Hublot MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire with its 14 day power reserve.

However, it’s simple and suits the low-key aesthetic of the pieces, particularly since the exhibition caseback exposes the Geneva stripes and perlage. Good nod to the Geneva Watch Days 2024, perhaps? Regardless, this is a hot piece of arm candy that’s a head turner and dinner party conversation starter. Will someone pass the smoked salmon?

Linked to a soft brown leather strap, you can buy a Daniel Roth Tourbillon at retail for 155,000 CHF as of September 2024.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue 79360B

Released in 2017, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono has deeply embedded a few questions into horophiles minds. Why does this classic dive watch require chronograph functionality? Easy answer, why not!

Source - Tudor

With the fluid horological industry seeing Chinese New Year calendars and fresh retrograde complications, the Black Bay sought, like American Idol, to re-invent itself with a stunning chrono display. Not quite the Howie Mandel of watches but you get what we mean. We’ve seen pink dial variants and two tone models, but now is the time to start feeling a little blue.

The steel 41mm x 14.2mm dimensions means these Tudor Black Bay Chrono novelties are not small by any means, rather they match up to the classic sports dimensions. The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour springs to mind… Offering 200 metres of water resistance, they are everything you expect in an entry-level model from this brand.

As strong as the Hulk and can capably last the distance more than Yohan Blake rocking his own Richard Mille.

Across the top is a navy blue bezel that is complemented with a tachymetric scale in white. This combination of blue and white is as impressive a duo as Penn and Teller. And here comes the magic.

With genuine optimal legibility, it keeps things pretty suave for the office and transcend easily from boardroom to beach. Tudor knows all about seamlessness. And that’s why this same colour scheme passes down onto the dial.

Showcasing a blue satin brushed dial with a complimentary sunray finish, this allows the silver sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock to be clearly displayed. These recessed counters can be recorded at 45-minute and small seconds intervals.

Time is easily read via the dot hour markers, and this works well with the classic Snowflake hands. There are jolts of red present on the “200m / 660ft” text over the date aperture at 6 o’clock, and the tip of the seconds hand.

Lying within the Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue is the Calibre MT5813. COSC certified, you too can bask in a rapid 28,800VpH movement alongside a strong 70 hour power reserve.

Only available at select Tudor Boutique’s, you can buy a Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue at retail for £4,880 as of September 2024.

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide

Worn by Borat funnyman Sacha Baron Cohen (Ref IW371610 and IWC Portugieser Chronograph, spotted at the 81st Venice International Film Festival in 2024) we ain’t joking when we say our next best new watch is on many collectors must-have lists.

Fresh to the game is the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide. But don’t let out a howl just yet. We won’t have you reading the stars for a horological sign, nor lost at sea with our insightful review of the latest iteration.

Source - IWC

We first saw the masts of the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide back in 2020, as it sailed into horophiles' hearts with the grace of a schooner. However, IWC are not ones to give a cheap remake.

For 2024, the Yacht Club sub-species has been revitalised with all the mod cons of the watchmaking world. At 44.6mm x 13.4mm, the steel watches are expertly finished. We’re talking polished bezel, sharp lugs and a grandeur that maybe King Charles can attest to on his Coronation day.

Nevertheless, this remains an out and out sports watch. Therefore, we have 100 metres of water resistance to play with, if you dare take this overboard. Mind you, this is not a Bell & Ross Hydromax. Far from it.

For the dial, we have an obsidian black shade. This moody number may appear to suit the casting of Beetlejuice, but its sharp, silver Arabic numerals and hands are easily distinguishable from the face.

For the complications, IWC harks back to the original set up of the Yacht-Club collection. The sub-dial at 6 o’clock covers the high and low ties, alongside specific tide tables depending on your location. This is a remarkable feature as its accuracy reaches over 100 years.

At 12 o’clock, this boasts a double moon-phase that shows the moon for both hemispheres, and offers other info such as the strength of the tides. Who needs a Snoopy Moonswatch when you have this regatta inspired model at your fingertips.

How can something have so many features? Well, the calibre 82836 ensures that the watches remain consistent, through the rapid 28,800VpH and 60 hour power reserve. Intersintly, this is also one of the first calibres from the brand to use a silicon hairspring to repel magnetism.

Way to evolve!

You can buy an IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide at retail for £20,500 as of September 2024.

Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone Edition

Does this match-up sound mighty familiar? Well, that’s because it definitely is! We actually wrote a thrilling article on the collaboration which you can view right here. However, we will give you a little low-down on this best new watch too.

Source - Zenith

Felipe Pantone is an Argentine-Spanish street artist that specialises in graffiti, wherein he creates colourful artworks in an avant-garde way. He has worked with Zenith since 2020, wherein a number of top pieces with electric colour schemes have been released.

It puts Eddie Grant’s “Electric Avenue” by the wayside in terms of the sheer colourful spectrum of hues used. About as colourful as the Studio Underd0g Watermel0n, right?

For 2024, Zenith and Felipe Pantone worked together one more time in order to produce a fabulous timepiece in steel. Measuring 41mm, these pieces have 100 metres of water resistance which means that they are exceptionally durable and can cope with most instances of knocks and light splashes in your pool.

Given a brushed finish throughout the majority, they have an octagonal bezel with a chamfered edge, that serves as a statement design code from the barrel shaped case. Furthermore, there are engravings on each corner of the case that spell FPT1, a link to the title, Felipe Pantone Tourbillon 1.

For the dial, we are treated to a solid shade of pure iridescence. This oil-spill aesthetic is effective at showing the lume filled lightning shaped baton hour markers and hands from the rainbow tinged pieces. It’s designed so that a sapphire disc boasts tiny engravings to produce the hypnotic lined display.

This allows the skeletonised tourbillon to be clearly exposed at 6 o’clock while adding a few extra style points. This is secured with a lightning shaped, rainbow bridge across its centre.

Within the watch pulsates the rapid, automatic El Primero 3630. Delivering a 60 hour power reserve alongside 5Hz, this is viewable through the sapphire back, which is finished with a stunning rainbow PVD coated oscillating rotor.

You can buy a Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone Edition at retail for £56,100 as of September 2024.

Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition

Considered one of the showstoppers from Geneva Watch Days 2024, Armin Strom were originally founded in 1967, wherein the legendary watchmaker, opened his first store in Switzerland. Want some timekeeping trivia? Hang on a tick.

Strom was recognised by the Guinness Book of Records for creating the world's smallest hand-skeletonised piece in 1990! But we cannot turn back the clock.

Source - Armin Strom

Celebrating 15 years since they created their first in-house movement back in 2009, Armin Strom have looked back to their Resonance pieces for a little revamp this year.

Sized at 39mm x 9.05mm, these watches are hot contenders for being your latest dress fix. They are even thinner than the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Center Seconds at 9.7mm and the Rolex Day-Date 36mm with a thickness of 12mm.

Crafted out of white gold, this is the epitome of uber luxury. The circular case is finished well with a polished bezel and sharp lugs, setting the scene for the dial to blow us away. And boy, does this send us into horological nirvana.

Fitted with an anthracite PVD coated main plate, there are two highly visible sub-counters at 3 and 9 o’clock with powder blue, hammered finishes standing well from their black chapter rings. In fact, we say that the blue closely mirrors the shade of the Studio Underd0g Desert Sky (Gen 2).

The sub-counter at 9 o’clock acts as an off-centre dial, whereby users can read the time via the silver, faceted hour markers and blackened hands. The sub-dial situated at 3 o’clock acts as an off-centre dial. Below both hands, you will find a day/night disc that allows users to measure whether it’s day or night, in either home or away locations.

Merrily skipping away within the watches is the rapid Calibre ARF22 movement. This manual-winding calibre offers a strong 25,200 VpH alongside a steady power reserve of 42 hours. Totalling 231 parts, this is a remarkable piece of watchmaking, especially since it uses two independent regulating systems via a singular resonance clutch spring to measure both times.

The light grey leather strap is a fantastic accompaniment. You can buy an Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition at retail for around £94,640 as of September 2024.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Patrouille Suisse

Ah, Pilot's watches. Perhaps the greatest invention ever since Cartier released the very first wristwatch model back in 1904 for his best buddy, Alberto Santos-Dumont who needed a watch on his wrist to make it easy to read time during flight.

Source - IWC

The Mark XX is not a particularly vintage addition to IWC’s collection. First seen in 2022, the collection essentially added a breath of fresh air to the Mark XII that had been in circulation around the 1990s. One thing that is older than this line is its tribute to the Patrouille Suisse team.

Celebrating 60 years of the Swiss Air Force team, IWC has been a firm supporter of the acrobatic lineup since 1994. So, how did IWC treasure such an occasion?

Arriving in the same splendour as John Mayer trotting down the red carpet at the Golden Globes, the IWC Mark XX Patrouille Suisse comes in a case diameter of 40mm with a thickness of less than 11mm (10.6mm to precise),m making this a perfectly acceptable piece to adorn in everyday occasions.

This is confirmed by the titanium material which is light and won’t weigh your wrist down like a barbell from Arnold Schwarzenegger’s ;local gym. The circular case allows the dial to be clearly revealed…and we appreciate the brushed finish across the bezel and lugs.

The dial is given a black background, which is complemented with a sunray-brushed finish. Not quite the H. Moser & Cie Venturer Concept Vantablack, but pretty good! This allows light to be cast throughout, and the various features of the dial to be instantly revealed.

The Arabic numerals, sword shaped hands and minute track are clearly presented in white, with the date aperture at 3 o’clock a useful complication for the man with too much to do. In case you forget what this watch is, the Mark XX Automatic text below the hands is a tasteful addition.

The Calibre 32111 is an automatic movement, has 21 jewels and enjoys 163 components. Yielding a whopping 120 hour power reserve and rapid 28,800VpH, the watches are quick and reliable, especially with the hacking seconds. And for less than ten grand, you are acquiring a piece of history that’ll last a lifetime.

You can buy an IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Patrouille Suisse at retail for £6,300 as of September 2024.

Cartier Santos-Dumont Red

Credit where credit’s due for our next best new watch in 2024. And this one puts Mick Hucknall in the dark (we’re talking about Simply Red!)

Source - Cartier

Time has flown to 2024, wherein Cartier have turned to the Santos-Dumont with a hot dial colour and unusual hour marker configuration. Maybe not as unusual as the Studio Underd0g Pizza Party watch, but still pretty nutty!

Totalling 43.5mm x 7.3mm, the watches are quite large on the wrist, but not overly thick. Furthermore, the platinum material is a rare material in horology due to its expense, but the Maison have decided to dish out the cash for a hot new model, presented in a stunning material.

Polished and brushed, the pieces are stylish, especially since they are secured in with eight screws across the bezel, mimicking the original classic design. Affixed to the side of the case is a carnelian crown that keeps in conjunction with the dial… Let’s get to that now!

For the dial, a wine red almost burgundy shade with an excellent amount of depth takes up the entirety of the face. As per the “Rewind” element of the pieces, the hour markers are backwards. You read that right!

So 11 o’clock is where 1 o’clock is and 9 o’clock is where 3 o’clock is, and so on. As crazy as the Franck Muller Crazy Hours (well almost), the polished Roman numeral hour markers work well alongside the equally polished lollipop shaped hands.

Within the watches is the Calibre 230 MC. This hand-wind movement offers a steady 21,600VpH alongside a 38 hour power reserve. Fitted with 18 jewels, this ultra-thin 2.15mm movement is inverted in order to match the opposite hour markers.

Capped at 200 pieces, you can buy a Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind at retail when you request a price as of September 2024.

L’Epee 1839 X MB&F Albatross

We said that we would be including the best new watches of 2024, right?

How about a piece that’s so avant-garde and crazy that even Grammy nominee Adam Sandler couldn’t make it look more wacky! A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush as they say.

Source - MB&F

Both under the umbrella of LVMH, L’Epee and MB&F have ten years of collaborative experience, wherein they’ve developed all manner of things, from robotics to far-flung timepieces designed for Mars than us mortals on Earth.

Now, they’ve come to Geneva Watch Days 2024 with a stunning piece named, Albatross. Just like our feathered friend, this will be flying off shelves and onto the cabinets and mantle pieces of the rich and famous.

With a limited-edition run of 1,520 pieces, this astounding creation comes in at 60cm x 35cm and is composed of a number of materials including aluminium, brass and steel. While it’s available in a number of colours, we particularly enjoy the blue translucent shades.

Shaped as a zeppelin, the watches have a number of features. Made up of two movements and winding systems, these individually power the time and the striking hour, while the other generates the energy to power the propellers above the piece and on either side.

Capable of running for 8 days without needing to be touched, there are two buttons that allow the pieces to be switched on and off. So, with 16 propellers that run at a speed of 14 seconds per turn, a dial that is made up of hours and minutes in a rotating display, the watches are truly crazier than trying to find a Rolex 4133 ‘Split-Seconds’

Capped at just 8 pieces, you can buy a L’Epee 1839 X MB&F Albatross at retail when you request a price as of September 2024.

Breitling Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar

For Geneva Watch Days 2024, Breitling celebrated 140 years of their incredible horological legacy.

Ranging from a new Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar to the Premier B19 Datora 42 140th Anniversary, the Breitling Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar is perhaps the most enigmatic one from the fresh trio.

Source - Breitling

Fitted into a 44m red gold casing, the Breitling Super Chronomat offers uber-luxury, especially since they are given a chamfered edge alongside a brushed finish across the tops. Affixed across the top is a large, black bezel with 60 minute rider tabs.

100 metres of water resistance is nothing to sniff at, and they hint to the true sporty power that's built inside the models. Strapped onto a black rubber strap, the watches are best worn when living your GI Joe life, or flexing this Breitling as a statement piece for the colder months.

For the dial, it is openworked, revealing the brand new B19 calibre that's been specifically released by Breitling for this 2024 Geneva Watch Days celebration. More on that later.

Time is red via the red gold hour markers and hands coated with luminescence. Designed with four sub-dials at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, these relate to a moon-phase, date complication, month and day indicator. Yep, that's power for you!

The B19 Calibre is chronometer certified, producing an outstanding 96 hour power reserve alongside a 28,800VpH. Totalling 39 jewels, this allows the movement to move smoothly and without friction.

Capped at 140 pieces, you can buy a Breitling Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar at retail for around £48,000 as of September 2024.

Conclusion

Slam on the breaks for a minute!

2024 is nowhere near finished and we’ve just collated the best of a phenomenal few months.

We’ve seen guitar inspired watches with Bulgari that will inevitably have rockstars flocking, the delectable Daniel Roth Tourbillon and the Zenith Defy Skyline Felipe Pantone with enough technical artistry to make Van Gough feel nervous.

However, we’d be here all day if we were to mention all of the best new watches to buy in 2024. Okay, you twisted our arm…how about a few more?

Model

Spec

Zenith

Defy Skyline

Chronograph Boutique Edition

Dial Colour - Grey

Diameter - 42mm

Material - Steel

Retail Price - Around £7,770

Grand Seiko

SLGW004

Dial Colour - Ivory

Diameter - 38mm

Material - Yellow gold

Retail Price - £27,300

Vacheron Constantin

Métiers d’Art- Legend of the Chinese Zodiac

Dial Colour - Snake inspired with blue background

Diameter - 40mm

Material - 950 Platinum

Retail Price - Price upon request

IWC

Portofino Chronograph 39mm

Dial Colour - White

Diameter - 39mm

Material - Steel

Retail Price - £7,000

Blancpain

Villeret Tourbillon Carrousel Green Dial

Dial Colour - Green

Diameter - 44.6mm

Material - Red gold

Retail Price - £333,400

Omega

Seamaster Diver 300m 37th America cup

Dial Colour - White

Diameter - 42mm

Material - Steel

Retail Price - £6,100

Audemars Piguet

Code 11:59 Selfwinding Chronograph

Dial Colour - Black

Diameter - 41mm

Material - Pink gold

Retail Price - £43,200

Omega

Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Ultra Light Armand Duplantis

Dial Colour - Navy blue

Diameter - 41mm

Material - Titanium

Retail Price - £48,400

Right, before we completely destroy ourselves and venture further down the rabbit hole, we had better slow down and let some of these watches sink in. There is one question that you should urgently ask yourself. If you find yourself inspired to buy one of the best watches of 2024…where should you go?

There’s only one horological solution to suit your every need. Whether you have under £5,000 or £50,000+ to spend, there’s one platform that has your back for every special occasion… and everything in between.

Time to let you in on our little secret…

Can't wait to buy a Grand Seiko Icefall? Want to buy an Audemars Piguet and get your hands on the greatest luxury brands around while saving time and money? Why not chat with Chrono Hunter here. Check out our phenomenal reviews on Trustpilot and find out why we are the number one source to buy a watch or sell a watch quickly.

Obtain a no-obligation estimate, provided by our exclusive network of the best retailers around. Thoroughly vetted and a closed platform, we only work with the best of the best to give consumers and collectors the most competitive prices, peerless service and a seamless platform.

Ensure you are looking sharp with peerless and benefit from 100% authenticity, security and the most seamless transaction around. Simply enter the details via our form or download our dedicated app, available on both Apple and Android platforms.

Buy Or Sell A Luxury Watch The Smart Way With Chrono Hunter

If you are considering your new purchase or perhaps the sale of a beloved timepiece, Chrono Hunter is the smart way to buy or sell a luxury watch.

Compare Offers from the worlds most reputable luxury watch retailers.

Save Time.

Save Money.

Personalised Service.

Hassle-Free.