Welcome all you intrepid Timelords. Today, we are taking you on a journey like never before. 

It’s time to lift the timekeeping curtain and reveal our pick of the best GMT watches and why you should add one to your collection. Be it horological virgins or you are so far down the rabbit hole, you are gasping for air, these pieces have exploded in popularity. 

Yet they have been around for decades.

An essential for any connoisseur or enthusiast, introduced some 70 years previous, seeing collections like the GMT-Master released from Rolex or current, avant-garde expressions like the Grand Seiko 36000 SBGJ277 Sekkei, this is not a one size fits all job.

From a fixation with aviation or you like a fourth hand, we have the lowdown on the big hitters, the underrated underdogs and everything in between. Covering all major brands and every discerning wallet, there is a timepiece here with your name on it.

But, before we start cooking up a shopping list for you to print off and show to your office colleagues or high roller compadres, we recommend you first educate yourself on exactly what a GMT is, their importance, and what you can expect from such a complication. 

Are you ready? Let’s get into the details!

 

What Is The Difference Between A Caller And True GMT?

The terms, Caller and True GMT are critical to understanding the breadth of these types of watches, and why it’s a term that cannot be frivolously thrown around. You need to have that LeBron James, last few seconds for an across the court shot, type of precision!

Chances are, you will have heard of a “True” GMT under a myriad of names, be it traveller or flyer. For this, functions typically feature an extra hand that relates to the home time. On the other side is the Caller or Office version which has a complication that does not relate to the home time.

Instead, this covers a foreign time zone. 

These differences may not seem significant, but they feature different alterations that are important. For example, a caller is a top choice for the gentleman looking to track other time zones, without having to amend his local time zone.

On the other hand, a True GMT alters the local time zone hand in one hour increments without impacting the date or general timekeeping. Sounds good for when you need to quickly read the local time in a new country or catching up with colleagues, right?

To summarise, a True GMT allows you to quickly change the local (normal hour) hand without impacting the general timekeeping, while a Caller variation allows you to set the extra GMT hand, making it perfect for keeping local time, but capable of measuring the time elsewhere. 

Whether jaunty jetsetter, or a Louis Vuitton bags-packed gentleman, there’s a piece for you to buy!

 

What Is The Original GMT Watch?

This is quite a contentious question, but we will endeavour to answer.

Arguably, the original is credited to a brand called Glycine under the model named The Airman, back in 1953. As the first to simultaneously display two time zones simultaneously via the 24 hour dial and bezel, this is the usual essential response.

Just two years later in 1955, Rolex came to town with their big boy pants on and introduced the GMT-Master. Made in collaboration with Pan American Airways, perhaps the most significant airline of the 50s, the model was designed for pilots to quickly read time when crossing time zones in flight. 

Swiss purists will cry bloody murder about the Rolex GMT-Master being the OG of this kind. Perhaps one watch to rule them all? However, we are much more liberal about its creation, and are just as happy that the complication is still popularised in today’s market.

Enough of your questions for a tick! 

Please join us as we reveal the best GMT watches that are perfectly suited for the intrepid traveller. Whether cruising the world or kicking back in your favourite chair, we have the perfect timepiece that’ll get you earning flex points and air miles in no time.

 

Longines Hydroconquest GMT - Green Dial

Longines had kept their bets safe in 2023 when they released the conservatively sized Hydroconquest in a range of colours like black, blue and green. 

For 2024, they’ve decided to throw caution to the horological wind and bulk up exactly how a traditional dive tool should be sized!

Source - Longines

 

But, this is where things get a little more interesting. This is not your standard dive watch. In fact, we see a fabulous complication that elevates this to a combination of both being highly durable, alongside extremely functional. 

Totalling 43mm x 12.90mm, they are not small. Therefore, we gladly put this into the bracket of being a statement piece. Crafted out of solid steel, these are statistically quite big, however, the lugs work well to “slenderize” the model against the prominent crown guards, and ridged bezel along the top. 

Water resistant to 300 metres, they are secured with a screw-in crown and caseback, ensuring their ability to be durable in all circumstances, whether you are floating around in the Dead Sea, or using your platinum-plated pen to sign a multi-million pound contract. 

The bezel is unidirectional and rotating, fitted with a 60-minute scale as per the dive feel of the watches. We know what you are asking…where is the 24 hour scale? Just give us a few more moments! 

Onto the dial, and this comes in a fabulous, sunray brushed green shade. This bright hue is a top accompaniment to the steely piece, as it clearly stands out and allows the gilt hands and applied index hour markers to clearly stand out. Coated in Swiss Super-LumiNova, they are ultra-legible. 

There is a 24 hour scale on the sloped flange of the face. Split into a dark green and light green accent for the AM and PM times, this distinction is important as it allows the extra, arrow tipped hand, acting as a local time reader. 

This is all made possible via the high-quality L844.5 Automatic Calibre. Fitted with a silicon hairspring allowing the movement to be anti-magnetic, the movement ensures a weekend proof 72 hour power reserve alongside a steady 25,200VpH. 

Affixed to a bracelet, we see you looking very sharp with an equally green suit, or simple black sports jacket when fraternising with your buddies. 

• You can buy a Longines Hydroconquest GMT at retail for £2,800 as of October 2024. 

 

Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR

Representing one of the brand's very first sports watches, it has since proved to be a long-standing member of the brands portfolio since the 1950s. In 2024, Watches and Wonders saw the release of an enigmatic new addition to the lineup in the form of the sensational reference 126718GRNR.

Source - Rolex

 

Quickly earning a new nickname of “Bruce Wayne” due to its black, Batman-esque design, horophiles are always quick off the draw when a new Rolex is out! Right, let’s get into some details.

Totalling 40mm x 11.9mm, they are made out of their patented material, Oystersteel. This is crafted in-house and uses the highest grade variant of the material possible, 904L. 

Fitted with a triplock crown alongside a solid caseback, the models offer 100 metres of water resistance, ensuring you can batter this around without too much hassle. Surrounding the anti-reflective sapphire crystal is a 24-hour bezel crafted out of Cerachrom.

The numbers have been inserted via platinum PVD, and allow them to be sensational timekeepers. 

For the glossy, lacquered black face, these allow the applied dot and baton hour markers to clearly be defined, alongside Mercedes hands in the centre. For the extra hand, this is given a contrasting green stem and arrow tip for differentiation. At 3 o’clock is an iconic Cyclops eye, exposing a date aperture. 

Beating within this nimble novelty is the Superlative Chronometer Calibre 3285. Running at a rapid 4Hz, it yields a 70 hour power reserve via the patented Chronergy escapement. Expect a daily accuracy of around -2/+2 seconds per day so you are getting top notch precision for less than £10,000. 

Affixed to a sporty Oyster bracelet, they are perfect additions to a simple black polo shirt and jeans, to a more formal navy blue suit. 

• You can buy a Rolex GMT-Master II at retail for £9,350 as of October 2024. 

 

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 Sekkei

Grand Seiko could easily be classified as one of the biggest users of the two-time zone complication. 

First bringing it to the table thanks to their 9S56 movement back in 2002, the brand continued to evolve their line, resulting in the exceptional Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 SBGJ277 Sekkei. 

Source - Grand Seiko

 

Yielding 200 metres of water resistance, its dimensions of 42.2mm x 14.4mm in a steel frame is perfectly finished with a beautiful Zaratsu polish. This is Grand Seiko’s signature finish that produces a mirror like finish, capable of being done by the most qualified and experienced craftsmen around. 

Over the slender steel lugs, rests a large bezel with a ridged edge for easy rotation.

It’s made up of a 24-hour scale that's coated with sapphire crystal. Showing both green and white segments, these indicate the AM and PM segments, with LumiBrite against the white segment and hour markers for instant legibility in the dark. 

For the face, this has a white, textured pattern, relating to the snowy caps in the Japanese valleys. Defined as “Sekkei”, this relates to the green vegetation that stands from the snow, offering a reason why Grand Seiko opted for the green AM bezel segment. 

The white texture allows the Zaratsu polished and applied hour markers to stand out, alongside the equally clean hands in the centre. The extra hand fits in very well, with just an arrow tip distinguishing from the rest. Don’t forget the added date aperture at 4 o’clock for added functionality!

This is all powered by the exceptional 9S86 calibre. Made entirely in-house, the automatic calibre runs at 36,000VpH and produces a 55 hour power reserve. The excellent +5/-3 seconds per day variance is not bad either…

Strapped onto a steel strap, this is a prime candidate for the modern wardrobe, including a rich, green jumper and black jeans, to a simple white T-shirt and dark purple chinos. 

• You can buy a Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 Sekkei at retail for £6,500 as of October 2024. 

 

Patek Philippe Grand Complications Alarm Travel Time 5520RG

Patek Philippe and GMT functions are the finest of friends. Like Ed Sheeran and John Mayer.

We could refer you to their stunning World Time collection that’s been on the go since 1939, displaying the time in all 24 cities, but we would instead like to point you to the 2024 Patek Philippe Grand Compilation Alarm Travel Time 5520RG. 

Source - Patek Philippe

 

Designed like a piece that James Bond would flex on one of his missions, Ref. 5520RG is a stunning rose gold model that chooses a middleweight case size of 42.2mm x 11.6mm. 

Sure, small watches are coming into fashion as noted by the diminutive dive watch, the 2023 39mm Tudor Pelagos, or the exciting Rolex 1908 Platinum, released at Watches and Wonders 2024, at 39mm with a slender, 9.50mm thickness. 

However, we fully appreciate that Patek Philippe keeps to their Grand Complication tradition of statement piece size and eye-catching designs. Given a prominent four crown aesthetic at 2, 4, 8 and 10 o’clock, this bold look relates to the various features ticking away within the piece. 

We’ll get to them in a minute!

For the face, we have a soft, sunburst grey shade that allows the applied stencil style Arabic numerals to clearly stand out, especially since they are coated with Luminova. This is the same for the sword shaped hour and minute hands.

Around the periphery is a black ring with a white 60-minute track to read those critical minutes when in a rush. 

However, there is an added skeletonised home time extra hand that can be easily missed if you don’t focus in! Below 12 o’clock is an alarm aperture, cut into two sections to cover the hours on the left and the minutes in 15-minute intervals on the right, relating to when the alarm will sound.

At 6 o’clock there is a useful date ring with a central hand. 

The two apertures between 3 and 4 o’clock, not to mention 8 and 9 o’clock relate to day and night indicators alongside local and home times. To adjust the local time (deciphered via the main hour hand) in one hour increments, simply refer to the pushers on the left side of the case to go either up or down. 

This is synchronised with the date aperture, ensuring you can seamlessly enter new time zones and make adjustments across the board. This is adjusted via the Calibre AL 30-660 S C FUS calibre. Completely in-house, the movement is just 6.6mm thick and made up of 574 parts.

Running at 28,800VpH and a 52 hour power reserve, they are ultra reliable and guaranteed to offer precision. 

Connected to a brown, calfskin leather strap, we think you’ll look fantastic if you wear this with a black suit for the boardroom, or a basic, white suit shirt and black chino combination for more laid back affairs.

• You can buy a Patek Philippe Grand Complications Alarm Travel Time 5520RG at retail for £222,020 as of October 2024. 

 

Rolex Sky-Dweller - Green Dial

If looks could kill, The Sky-Dweller Green Dial would surely be a serial murderer! 

Introduced to horophiles way back in 2012, it makes it one of the brand's more recent collections. 

Source - Rolex

 

Representing the first line from the Swiss brand in 20 years, it is arguably the their most complicated collection due to its fusion of annual calendars, SAROS cycles and specialised Ring Command system on the bezel to adjust all features.  

With a case diameter of 42mm and a 13.8mm thickness it may not be a slender number as per the Rolex Daytona 126500LN at 11.9mm, but simply put, it has to house their most complex calibre, the 9002. 

We’ll get to that shortly…

Crafted out of a healthy combination of Oyster Steel and white gold, the two materials are both similar in terms of their lustre which is perfect for the discerning gent who likes the knowledge that his wrist wear has that extra special, precious metal vibe…without the yellow ostentation.

If you want that, why not buy a Vacheron Constantin 222. That’s if Brad Pitt hasn’t snaffled them up.

Across the edge is a fluted bezel. First spotted on the Oyster back in 1926, the original purpose was to offer optimal water resistance, but is now an aesthetic choice across their dress watches. 

Onto the face, and they treat us to a low-key mint green shade with a sunray finish. This allows the Chromalight infused face with applied baton hour markers and similarly shaped hands to look the part. Meanwhile, the Cyclops eye located at 3 o’clock allows the date aperture to clearly stand out. 

Accompanied by a red inverted triangle, the 24 hour disc in the centre relates to the chosen time by the user, whether home or local time. This equally allows users to easily measure day and night hours instantaneously. 

However, it’s not all about extra time zone functions. They offer 12 windows around each hour marker, relating to the current month via a red rectangle filling the respective month. Only one adjustment of the annual calendar is needed per year, and that’s for a leap year.

When the local time is adjusted, users will be glad to hear the date automatically changes with it. 

Onto the calibre, this 9002 movement is a perpetual, mechanical beast, fitted with Rolex’s patented Paraflex shock absorbers and Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring to combat temperature changes and shocks. This yields a 72 hour power reserve and a -2/+2 seconds per day accuracy. 

• You can buy a Rolex Sky-Dweller at retail for £13,850 as of October 2024. 

 

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT

TAG Heuer’s legacy stems mainly from the 1960s Autavia GMT to meet race car driver demands as they travelled globally Then there was the Heuer Senator, launched in 1979 with a digital display and the Aquaracer Professional, being a top example of their dual time zone zenith. 

Source - TAG Heuer

 

Originally released under the Series 2000 name, this later evolved to the sensational Aquaracer in 2005, and then the first Aquaracer models with the capability to read two time zones in 2017 under the Calibre 7. So, does the 2024 released Aquaracer Professional 300 retain their prowess? We think so!

The 42mm x 13.1mm steel shaping offers users 300 metres of water resistance, a top stat for the gent interested in flexing his horological goods from the office to the sandy beaches in the Bahamas. 

Across the top is a steel dodecagonal unidirectional rotating bezel. Inside is a two-tone green and black bezel with a 24 hour scale, separating both AM and PM times. The brushed and polished finish is instrumental in letting the bezel stand out as the centre-piece. 

For the face of the piece, this is fitted with dodecagonal and tapered baton hour markers against an almost alien, sunray brushed green face. Made up of a wave style, horizontal pattern, this sets a surreal background for this legible timekeeper to operate. 

The date aperture with magnifying glass at 6 o’clock is a useful addition. Away from the lume filled hour and minute hands, there is an added, light green extra hour hand with lume, arrow tipped head pointing to the 24 hour scale on the bezel, ensuring multiple time zones can easily be measured. 

Running steadily within the steel is the ultra-reliable TH31-03 COSC certified movement. Offering an impressive 80 hour power reserve alongside a 28,800VpH, the automatic calibre is steady, and allows the hours, minutes, seconds, date and twin time zone functions to be capably powered. 

Linked to a steel strap, this would be perfect with your trunks, a blue jean and green T-shirt ensemble or a powder blue suit shirt for an elevated ensemble. 

• You can buy a TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT at retail for £3,650 as of October 2024.

 

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

For some our next best GMT watch may be the vanilla of the community but get out of the red and into the black for a second. 

The Tudor Black Bay 58 was released in 2018, following the highly desirable Black Bay 41mm from 2012. 

Source - Tudor

 

The Black Bay 58 became a prominent success of the line due to its smaller 39mm dimensions. Nonetheless, its solid water resistance and general timekeeping is simply not enough for some horophiles. How about a little… complexity? 

Well, for Watches and Wonders 2024, Geneva was the stage for Tudor to flex a little dive piece muscle rivalling the Hulk with that enticing complication. Let’s see what’s ticking inside

The 39mm case is very reminiscent of the classic Tudor Submariner from 1958. This is especially important as this was the first from the brand that reached 200 metres of water resistance. Well, this beauty likes its tradition as it has the same!

The 12.8mm thickness is not too excessive, allowing users to wear this under shirt cuffs for the office, or use it as a standalone piece of eye candy when wearing short sleeves. Complimented with brushed and polished finishes across the sides and lugs, they fuse sporty and dress watch subtlety together. We feel it could be a great everyday driver for many.

Across the top is a very unique, red and black two-tone bezel that may conjure up a few nicknames for the devout Rolex horophiles… Coke, anyone? Visible across the anodised aluminium insert, the gilt markers display a 24 hour scale, allowing users to measure AM and PM time with ease, in conjunction with the diamond tipped extra hand. 

Against the pitch black dial, the hour markers are defined by gilt dots and baton hour markers. Filled with luminova, this is similar to the classic Snowflake hands in the centre. Given a small date aperture at 3 o’clock, users will be satisfied with the complexity of this piece, especially since it isn’t too overbearing. 

Look inside to see the sensational Calibre MT5450-U. Master chronometer certified, the models offer a phenomenal -2/+4 seconds per day accuracy, combining GMT functionality alongside a useful silicon balance spring to combat magnetism. 

Throw in a weekend-proof 65 hour power reserve and you really have more bang for your buck than 47th US President Donald Trump is promising American families (well almost) Linked onto a steel bracelet, we think this would look fabulous against a black suit, or a perfect accompaniment with that camel overcoat when Christmas comes. 

• You can buy a Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT at retail for £3,960 as of October 2024. 

 

Longines Master Collection GMT - Gold

Sneaking into 2024 in January was the fabulous Master Collection GMT. The Master Collection has been around since 2005 as one of their stand out dress inspired collections. 

Source - Longines

 

While we could go on about the stunning Master Collection Small Seconds celebrating the 190th Anniversary of the brand in February 2024, we would like to focus on this beautiful execution.

As the first release of 2024, the tasteful 40mm x 10.40mm specs allows users to flex the yellow gold case in most situations. We say most as the 30 metres of water resistance is not particularly fantastic for dealing with the seas, nor the deep end of the swimming pool. 

But, action men like Arnold Scharzenegger prefer their Panerai’s to these dainty dress watches, so we are in the clear! Users will be pleased to glance down at a soft silver shade dial, especially since the contrasting yellow Roman numeral hour markers and leaf shaped hands are so visible, alongside the sumptuous date aperture at 6 o’clock, allowing users to measure a range of things. 

So, where does the GMT functionality come into play? Well, cast your eyes to the sloped, silver flange. Revealing a 24 hour scale, this works well with the blackened extra hand, standing starkly out from the remainder of the yellow hands. 

This true GMT allows you to simply adjust the local time hour by one hour increments, allowing you to quickly change to the current time zone, while using the extra hand to measure home time. 

Beating steadily within the Master Collection model is the reliable Calibre L844.5 calibre. Totalling 21 jewels, the movement offers a 72 hour power reserve, alongside a 25,200VpH, ensuring the accuracy and precision of the models. Strapped onto an anthracite grey alligator strap, we can see this being a strong addition to your formal wardrobe. Suits only, we reckon!

• You can buy a Longines Master Collection GMT Gold at retail for £14,200 as of October 2024. 

 

Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT Sky Blue

As Cy Grant recounted in 1964, Birds flying high, you know how I feel. Sun in the sky, you know how I feel. 

Look, we’ve seen a lot of elegant high-flying models on this best GMT watches list. How about something that adds a little utility case around the complication? Easy, we would like to present the ultra-strong Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT Sky Blue. 

Source - Bell & Ross

 

Released in 2023, it is a respectable interpretation of the line that was only released 6 years previously in 2019. However, this isn’t a morbid grey and black version that offers no fun or colour… This is actually very bright!

The 41mm x 11.1mm steel models are built into the emblematic square shape, consisting of four screws in either corner of the case. Given large crown guards on the right, they yield 100 metres of water resistance. 

Given a shiny blue dial with rhodium plated Arabic numerals and baton hour markers, these are all given a thick layer of luminescence, pertaining to the excellent visibility of the BR 05 Sky Blue. The line follows the successful BR-03 line, but talk is cheap. 

Check out our exclusive in-depth interview with Carlos Rosillo, Founder of Bell & Ross in conversation with our Head of Content and PR, Simon Lazarus here.  

So the hand on this piece has a triangular tip with lume coating, and points to the 24 hour scale displayed on the flange. Separated into both a blue and a silver shade, this two tone ring keeps in tandem with the dial colour and is still clearly presented. 

The date aperture at 3 o’clock is a useful addition for the gent that's always on the move. Luckily for us is the BR-CAL.325, offering a steady 4Hz alongside a 42 hour power reserve. This caller GMT sees the extra hand independently move in one hour increments, perfect for the gent looking to quickly read the time zone abroad or catching up with close ones on the other side of the world.

Connected onto a blue rubber strap with a textured, lined pattern, this is a top choice for those svelte summer ensembles. However, let’s not forget winter for a second, as you can make this look fabulous with a simple black jumper alongside a white suit shirt, or tan suede jacket and blue jeans. 

• You can buy a Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT Sky Blue at retail for £5,000 as of October 2024. 

 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic

We are always a fan of new takes on classic complications. 

However, we may have skipped a beat with Jaeger-LeCoultre following the 2024 release of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic. No extra hand here, nor a 24 hour scale. Hold on, we’ll reveal all!

Source - Jaeger-LeCoultre

 

Originally spotted under the Memovox line in 1968, wherein it offered alarm functionality and 200 metres of water resistance. Since 2018, the Polaris has had its own designated collection to celebrate the original piece, and is now a stone wall addition to the brands portfolio. 

For the latest Polaris Geographic, they take a leaf out of their 2018 Polaris Geographic World Time in terms of features and design codes. Measuring 42mm x 11.54mm of steel and 100 metres of water resistance, the sleek case is characterised by chamfered lugs, brushed edges and a razor thin bezel that wraps around the case. 

Furthermore, it sets the perfect outline for the domed sapphire crystal to boast the complex looking dial. We assure you, it’s not that hard to read! Offering a variety of dial styles, from a gradient grey centre with black periphery, to a granular, textured outer ring, it’s finaled with a black edging. This allows the 60-minute scale to be clearly displayed, alongside the exceptionally useful 24 cities aperture under 6 o’clock. 

The hands sit in the centre, given lume tips apart from the second hand which has a red tip and a lume box about three-quarters up the stem. 

Instead of a classic design, this piece uses an aperture at 6 o’clock to display 24 cities. By using the crown at 10 o’clock, users can scroll through each one until you find your desired city. Indicated by an inverted red triangle at 6 o’clock, the second time zone is defined by an aperture above 6 o’clock, showing two hands and a 12 hour clock. 

Furthermore, this is tied in with a small day and night indicator on its left. Once you’ve chosen your city, the second time zone hour hand will instantly be altered to reflect the time zone. They expand on this further by clearly defining which city has daylight savings, and through the stop-seconds feature, you can accurately make alterations to the second time zone. 

Keeping up to speed is the exceptional JLC Calibre 939. Offering a 70 hour power reserve (viewable through the power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock), they have a 28,800VpH frequency. Oh this is one to look at especially as the brand is responsible for 1,200 plus calibres since the 1830s. You learn something every day.

Connected to a blue and grey canvas strap, the would look sublime with a navy blue denim shirt, or a cream jumper for colder months when Jack Frost is tapping at the window…or dial.  

• You can buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographicat retail for £14,800 as of October 2024. 

 

Rolex GMT Master II 126718GRNR

If you appreciate the Rolex GMT-Master II, but want something with a little more Emmys or Golden Globes glamour than classic Oyster steel models, Ref. 126718GRNR, released at Watches and Wonders 2023, may be your best bet. 

Source - Rolex

 

Sized at 40mm x 11.90mm of Rolex’s in-house yellow gold, this is a material that has been missing from the brands collection for quite a while, so we are glad they have come to their senses and reintroduced it. 

To have a model as sporty as this and dress it up in precious metals is a huge advancement in the direction Rolex are going. It’s clear that nothing is safe from the King Midas touch, including their equally ultra-luxurious Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea released from Watches and Wonders 2024. All that glitters seems to be gold from a brand with desirability not just at retail but on the pre-owned market. 

For Ref. 126718GRNR, the watches feature sharp lugs and a polished aesthetic throughout. Offering 100 metres of water resistance, they are durable, reliable and capable of keeping up with your go-getter lifestyle. 

Across the top is a 24 hour scale that is split into a two-tone black and grey scale. The numerals are yellow, and are easily discernible from the two shades. For the dial, this has a pitch black shade, allowing the gilt dot and baton hour markers to be defined. 

Down to the Mercedes hands, everything is coated in lume for optimal legibility. Speaking of legibility, the patented Cyclops eye of the date aperture at 3 o’clock is a neat addition, and fits in with the hour markers like a well-worn leather glove. 

The added hand with lume filled triangular tip is functional and ensures that the watches are ultra precise and clearly read multiple time zones with ease. This true GMT means you just need to shift the crown to alter the hour hand by hour increments to read the new time zone, while the extra hand covers home time. 

This is all powered by the Calibre 3285. Superlative Chronometer certified, this is the brand’s very own certification method that uses Chronergy escapement and Parachrom hairspring to maximise the 70 hour power reserve and 28,800 VpH frequency. 

Strapped onto a bracelet, we think a clean, black double breasted suit is the best bet. Especially if you happen to be heading up for a Grammy or an Oscar!

• You can buy a Rolex GMT-Master II 126718GRNR at retail for £35,400 as of October 2024. 

 

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Tokyo Lion SBGC275

Our next contender does not have the eye of the tiger. Far from it. 

Released to selected retail partners in July 2024, this Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion is a continuation of the brand's rip-roaring celebration of the Calibre 9R, now in its second decade.

Source - Grand Seiko

 

For those who don’t know, the Calibre 9R was born in 2004 and was the first representation of Grand Seiko’s famed Spring Drive calibre being automatic winding, and offering a 72 hour power reserve. Yep, this is pretty sensational!

So, for 2024, they have released a fresh interpretation for horophiles to gush over. Released during Watches and Wonders 2024, we hope you have taken a seat.

Crafted out of high-intensity titanium, this very bulky 44.5mm x 16.8mm piece has most of its weight troubles countered by the use of such a material. High-intensity titanium is actually around 4 times harder than pure titanium, yet retains its supreme lightness. 

Finished well with signature Zaratsu polishing, the sharp lugs and rigid corners stand out proudly. This means the two pushers and the crown on the right of the case take on a distinctly softer design. Across the top is a fixed bezel that features a sapphire insert with a luminous 24 hour scale. 

This, in conjunction with the added, lume filled arrow-headed extra hand, allows users to capably measure multiple locations with ease.

Displayed against a red textured dial (defined as Morgenrot), this is inspired by the red early morning skies over the Hotaka Peaks mountain range. They are becoming more and more the David Attenborough of the luxury watch world! Furthermore, the brush stroke design is an ode to the brand's lion emblem, specifically its rich mane. 

Boasting chronograph subdials at 2, 4 and 9 o’clock, there is a power reserve indicator at 7 o’clock, and a date aperture at 3 o’clock. Time is simply read via the faceted, brushed hands and the short baton hour markers. Plus, there is no Halloween trick here as we’re treated to the steady Calibre 9R96. Designed in-house, it provides a 72 hour power reserve alongside a sensational accuracy of around +/- 5 seconds per day. 

This is what they do above many in the circle. Fixed to a titanium bracelet, we can see this being a perfect addition to a burgundy suit shirt, or a tasteful egg-shell white fleece when out in the brisk cold. 

• You can buy a Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Tokyo Lion SBGC275 at retail for £12,000 as of October 2024. 

 

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G

We could harp on about the Cubitus that didn’t take long to appear on the wrist of Mark Wahlberg when released at a private event in October 2024. 

Rewind time a bit and at Watches and Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe decided to treat us to a fresh Aquanaut. Adding to the line that’s been in play nearly as long as Roger Federer at Wimbledon (1994 to be exact), the Aquanaut represented a youthful play on the classic Nautilus collection. 

So, what makes this Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G unique?

Source - Patek Philippe

 

The 40.8mm x 10.2mm white gold case shape is perfectly designed with chamfered edges around the octagonal bezel, and given a brushed finish across the top. After all, this is inherently a sporty watch, but with a little more luxury vibe to it than your standard steel novelty. 

The screw down crown unfortunately does not do much for the dismal 30 metres of water resistance. Best save this for those luxury horological shows, right? For the dial, this is given a light blue shade. Displayed against the embossed, grenade style face, this allows the large, white Arabic numerals and hands to be distinguished, especially since they are filled with lume through their centre. 

For the second time-zone function, simply refer to the skeletonised home time hand in the centre of the dial. This allows you to measure a second time zone, but beware, the date sub-counter at 6 o’clock works in conjunction with the local time. The two apertures on either side of the central hands allow you to measure whether it’s day or night for local and home times.

Powering this is the Calibre 26-330 S C FUS, an automatic movement that totals 290 parts and offers a 45 hour power reserve alongside a 28,800VpH. Affixed to a light blue composite strap, this peppy watch is the perfect addition for your T-shirt and jeans outfit, or something a little more refined like a charcoal shirt and black chinos. 

• You can buy a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G at retail for £54,000 as of October 2024. 

 

Longines Spirit Zulu Time

The sensational Spirit Zulu Time was inspired by their first dual timepiece in 1925, wherein they had a Zulu flag on the face, due to the letter “Z” being codenamed “Zulu” for aviators. 

Nothing like a true pilot watch!

Source - Longines

 

Crafted out of grade 5 titanium (one of the highest grades used in current horology), the 39mm x 13.50mm dimensions are ultra fashionable and built to be light and durable to cope with all elements. 

This is confirmed by the 100 metres of water resistance, allowing you to flex in the swimming pool or when clinking glasses with the CEO after a record-breaking financial year. Across the top is a black, bidirectional bezel, totalling an engraved 24 hour scale and a triangular marker at 12 for easy reading. 

This works well with the added, red arrow-tipped hand, given a diamond, lume-filled tip, as it allows you to calculate multiple time zones. Time is easily read via the Arabic numerals and syringe style hands, especially since they have lume centres and gilt edging, standing out from the pitch-black face. The date aperture sits well at 6 o’clock and is not obtrusive, while the 5 star emblem above it represents the chronometric quality of the movement. 

Home to the L844.4 calibre is made up of 21 jewels and beats at 25,200VpH, they offer a 72 hour power reserve and is COSC certified, ensuring it’s longevity and enduring quality.  Connected to a titanium strap, this is a prime candidate for a sports jacket, quarter-zip jumper or polo shirt to dress things up if you have more Bugatti’s than Andrew Tate.

• You can buy a Longines Spirit Zulu Time at retail for £3,900 as of October 2024. 

 

Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453

When the Panerai Radiomir was released back in 1938, it was granted to the Royal Navy in 1938 to assist with their military expeditions. 

Source - Panerai

 

Using Radium luminescence since 1910, they were one of the first brands to apply lume to their watches. Since the Royal Navy would most likely be traversing through murky water, this was a sensational addition to their timekeeping arsenal.

While this later evolved to Tritium in 1949, the Radiomir line has remained a favourite for watch lovers, especially those interested in military history. For today, we will not be looking at their dive legacy, rather the modernised Goldtech PAM01453!

The prominent 45mm case is an expected sizing for Panerai. As the brand that big-armed icons like Arnold Schwarzenegger and Sylvester Stallone adorn, they have earned their reputation as the big brand for even bigger people! Kinda like the Hummer of luxury watches.

Bigger and bolder, they are crafted out of Panerai’s own polished Goldtech, combining copper, platinum and gold to produce the warm hues of a tantalising rose material. The snow-white dial offers a crisp contrast to the rose baton hour markers and hands. Given a sun-brushed finish, they present complications like the day of the week and date at 3 o’clock, as well as a 24 hour indicator at 9 o’clock, acting as your alternative time zone.

Keeping time better than a German train, the Panerai Radiomir is fitted with the Panerai P.4100 calibre. Offering a 28,800VpH alongside a 3 day power reserve, the models are fitted with a KIF anti-shock device to combat knocks. You won’t find any tough blows with this one.

• You can buy a Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453 at retail for £34,700 as of November 2024. 

 

Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time x Marine Nationale

Steaming hot off the press before the end of 2024, we could not wait any longer to introduce you to our next best GMT watch.

Now, are you a gent that requires a timepiece for your next jet-setting adventure? The Pelagos Zulu FXD Time x Marine Nationale is a heaven-sent combination of Pelagos strength and Marine Nationale, (French Navy,) offering buckets of practicality and function.

Source - Tudor

 

The 42mm x 12.7mm sizing comes in grade 2 titanium along the tops, and grade 5 titanium. The consistent brushed finish throughout the tonneau case is attractive, and has a staunchly sporty aesthetic. 

Along the top is a bidirectional bezel with a usable 24 hour scale. Displayed against a black ceramic insert, this is ultra-resistant to scratches and marks, and is luminescent, allowing you to easily view the alternative time zone with consummate ease. 

For the black dial, there’s no frivolous aesthetics or finishes. Just like the Marine Nationale, this is a very serious tool that offers optimal legibility when you are out on your missions… or just running to the train! The face allows for the luminous baton and rectangular hour markers to clearly stand out, alongside legendary Snowflake hands and the tidy date aperture at 3 o’clock. 

To read multiple zones, use the 24 hour scale on the bezel, alongside the extra, orange hand in the centre of the face. This allows you to determine home and away times with ease, and get prepared for that new time zone when sky-high.

Keeping up to speed is the sensational MT5652 calibre. Master Chronometer certified, the models offer a rapid 28,800VpH alongside a 65 hour power reserve. Furthermore, the watches offer resistance to 15,000 of Gauss, allowing you to easily combat the threat of magnetism. 

• You can buy a Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time x Marine Nationale at retail for £4,000 as of November 2024. 

 

Santos De Cartier Dual Time

If there was a Hall of Fame for the horological world, the chances are that the Santos De Cartier would be right there at the top. 

Source - Cartier

 

Released in 1904, Louis Cartier accepted his friend and Brazilian aviator, Alberto Santos Dumont, the challenge of creating a piece that allows him to tell the time during flight. Representing one of the very first wristwatches ever made, it’s argued too that it was the first pilots watch as well. 

How’s that for a two in one?

Fast-forward to 2024, the Santos De Cartier Dual Time is a strong representation of the original model, including the classic square cse and prominent 8 screw aesthetic on the bezel. 

Totalling a 40.2mm x 10.1mm, the watches are crafted out of steel. Sure, it’s not the most attractive material, but its fabulous brushed and polished finish elevates it as the perfect travelling companion and suitable for those swanky balls. Airport fashion (at a minimum) has never looked so good!

For the face, the slate grey shade is distinguished into a few segments. From the inner, recessed square minute track, to the outer ring that shows polished silver Roman numerals on the outer segment, the design is organised, timeless and seamless. 

The central hands move smoothly throughout the piece, alongside the tidy date aperture at 3 o’clock. For the second time zone, refer to the sub-counter at 6 o’clock that has its own aperture and hour hand. Now that’s how you evolve a complication. 

Unfortunately we cannot take a look at the calibre. Not made in-house, this movement is based on the SW-330, but the solid stats don’t put us down. The 4Hz and 40 hour power reserve is sharp and good enough for the model. 

• You can buy a Cartier De Santos at retail for £8,800 as of November 2024.

 

Blancpain Villeret GMT Date

If you can turn your head away from the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms lineup (the first modern dive watch), you may become ever so slightly obsessed with the Villeret collection. Inspired by the Swiss village where Blancpain was made in 1735, it was launched in the 1980s as one of their very few dress watch collections. 

Source - Blancpain

 

For their Villeret model, this is an updated edition of the usually quite minimalist line. The 40mm x 10.25mm steel case is given a polished finish throughout, including the slim bezel and sharp lugs that affix the black leather strap to the model. 

Everything, from the small crown to the tight case dimensions, all suggest the dressy qualities while the face equally keeps this theme in full sprint, with a laid back aesthetic that still houses a complex functions and date aperture. 

The crisp white colour allows the polished, silver Roman numerals and hands to stand out. The look is sharp, and prioritises refinement over anything else. The seconds hand has a little glimmer of stylish umph, as noted by the small Blancpain “B” logo on the start of the hand. 

The low-key date aperture at 3 o’clock sits inside of the 24 hour scale. This inner ring is given a brighter white background, contrasting it from the slightly cloudy main dial, and allowing users to quickly use the extra red tipped hand to read multiple time zones at once. 

Tear your eyes from the front and get moving to the exhibition back. We can see the 5A50 calibre, with its unabating 100 hour power reserve and 3Hz. Made of 238 components, they are secured with a silicon balance spring and 28 jewels to ensure it dances to a very mch reliable beat.

• You can buy a Blancpain Villeret GMT Date at retail for £12,000 as of November 2024. 

 

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT

Plunging next on to our best GMT watches is The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean. 

Released in 2005, as an update to the original Seamaster collection from the 1960s, when it first touched down, the Planet Ocean indicated a boosted up version of the traditional dive watch, the Seamaster. Bulked up to 45mm and granted 600 metres of water resistance, the models are not for the faint hearted. 

Source - Omega

 

However, there’s only so far a big dive watch can go before being too… samey. Therefore, Omega have decided to turn it into a highly durable, statement piece for the travelling gentleman to flex on the go. Here is the mighty Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean!

Crafted out of grey ceramic, the material is lightweight, durable and a top choice for those looking to buy something outside of steel. Sure, the 45.5mm x 17.4mm is obscenely large, almost to the point where the wrist is mostly wrist-watch but this is compensated by the ceramic which takes off some of the weight. Particularly if you are a light traveller and going in and out of destination to shake hands on an important contract.

On the top is a 60-minute scale, displayed in a grey ceramic insert, allowing users to continue to measure decompression phases if they find themselves diving. The second time zone functionality is spotted via the 24 hour scale on the flange and the added black hand with red arrow tip. 

Time is read via the Arabic and baton hour markers, alongside the ultra-legible arrow shaped hour and minute hands. Accompanied by a date aperture at 3 o’clock, the models are reliable and brimming with functionality. 

We recommend you turn the watches over now. The 600 metres of water resistance is quite incredible, especially since it completely opposes the traditional steel, no complication dive watches of the day. We always welcome modernity, Omega! Steadily running behind the exhibition caseback is the high-powered Calibre 8906 Titanium. Made in-house, this Master Chronometer movement offers a 3.5Hz beat alongside a 60 hour power reserve. 

• You can buy an Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT at retail for £21,000 as of November 2024. 

 

Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524G

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time is only a fairly recent innovation..in horological terms of course! 

Created in 2015, the line started as it meant to go on. Complex, fast and bristling with functionality!

Source - Patek Philippe

 

With fresh references arriving three years later in 2018 in the shape of reference 5524R and 7234R, we’ve seen everything from limited edition models made for Singapore Grand Exhibitions to very rare titanium models made for charity. 

If you kept abreast of our Patek Philippe discontinued article, you’ll have noticed that the glorious rose gold 7234R has since been removed. All good things must come to an end. Therefore, we’re looking back in the catalogue to the phenomenal 5524G to get our horological thrills. 

We respect the 42mm x 10.78mm case dimensions, especially since we understand the complexity of the models, the quality of the movement, and how legibility is paramount. And they opt for white gold here. Not as flashy as yellow, nor as plain as steel, the material is the perfect compromise between luxury and sheer ostentation befitting of London Fashion Week. 

The polished finish across the slightly slanted bezel, lugs and the case sides, all point to the immense craftsmanship. Nothing is untouched in this beauty! For the dia, we are granted a blue varnished aesthetic, promoting the white Arabic numerals and hands. Within is a thick coating of light blue luminescence, prioritising legibility, without it being at the expense of style.

With time being easy to read, we can safely move onto the remainder of the complications, including an added local date at 6 o’clock, not to mention two day/night indicators at either side, covering both home and away. 

We know you are a busy man, therefore reading time in multiple locations is quintessential for the gent around town, or the office. Simply refer to the added skeletonised hour hand in the centre of the face, and the trim white minute track around the edge of the face, allowing users to read the seconds with utmost precision.

As you’ve guessed, this beast probably needs something equally monstrous to dwell within…Enter, the sensational 26-330 S C FUS calibre! Alongside offering dual time, be prepared to flex a 45 hour power reserve and a 28,800VpH. Supported by a Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring, the watches are given a stamp of approval via the certified Patek Philippe Seal. 

• You can buy a Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time at retail for £50,870 as of November 2024. 

 

Frederique Constant Yacht Timer GMT

With 30 in house calibres to their name in 35 years, our next contender pulls no punches. 

Unveiled in 2018, Frederique Constant released the first ever Yacht Timer GMT, offering users a distinctly nautical experience. Forget the Rolex Deepsea Challenge 126067 for a second. However, the added dual time function means you won’t just be pool-side in order to get the most of this beauty… Allow us to divulge you in further details…

Source - Frederique Constant 

 

As a part of the brands legendary “Classics” collection, they are certainly as well-regarded as a now silver haired Daniel Craig as James Bond. There’s no shoot to kill policy here, rather, Frederique Constant offers a piece that can ride the waves and offer multiple time zone readability. 

At 42mm x 12.16mm, it is not too offensive to the modern man’s wrist. Considering this is in aid of the 100 metres of water resistance and crafted from steel, they are neither hideously large, or so small that they lose all their durability. 

Simplicity personified, we like the brushed and polished going on. In fact, they could easily become your next best friend when you’re out and about since they hold the line between being sporty and dressy. For the face, they decide to keep this steady approach with a slicked back yet imposing aesthetic. 

Below an ultra-resistant sapphire crystal, the navy blue shade is given a textured display made up of many dots. For us, this appearance appears to mimic a pair of reliable blue jeans. For others, it may be an expansive view over the pacific. Whatever you think, it is certainly a hypnotic eye catcher from a brand gaining notoriety.

Time is easily read via the sword shaped hands and baton hour markers. Lumed up and ready to roll, the timekeeping sits as the main focal point, while the date aperture at 3 o’clock is a neat addition for added complexity.

For the travelling man, we point you to the internal 24 hour scale, split into blue and white segments. Covering AM and PM times, combined with a central, extra red tipped hand, they read multiple time zones with ease.

Keeping everything in check is the automatic in-house FC-350 calibre. The 38 hour power reserve isn’t fantastic, but we love the rapid 28,800VpH, and the 26 jewels that ensure your movement runs like a panther, and not like iconic lead singer (and unfortunate viral sensation) Frankie Valli!

• You can buy a Frederique Constant Yacht Timer GMT at retail for £1,895 as of November 2024. 

 

Cartier Tonneau Dual Time - Rose Gold

The Cartier Tonneau was first seen in 1906, making it just a mere two years older than the initial Cartier Santos. 

Becoming an iconic for its tonneau shaped case long before Richard Mille were on the scene, it is arguably one of the first models that influenced the later Art-Deco period, starting in 1919. 

Source - Cartier

 

Hey, not many other top Swiss luxury watch brands can attest to that feat!

After a lengthy period of silence, the Tonneau came back in 2019, with two fresh models particularly taking the industry by storm. These were dual-time timepieces, and they quickly formed part of Cartier’s famed Privé lineup. 

Let’s see what all the fuss is about then. 

We won’t beat around the bush. This is not small. The 52.4mm x 10.4mm specs is enough to make a grown man weep. However, this is due to the unorthodox tonneau shape that stretches the models out and makes them particularly lengthy on the wrist. Not even Hulk Hogan could try to keep this bad boy under his suit shirt sleeves!

If you can get over that, the rose gold case is polished from the bezel to the lugs. Very precious and extremely luxurious, they are truly sublime and likely to be the topic of conversation from your father-in-law to your heartbroken colleagues!

For the cabochon lovers, you’ll be glad to know that Cartier grants us not one, but two at the top and bottom of the right hand side of the case with blue sapphires. We’ll get to the “why’s” shortly…

The openworked face is made up of two distinct segments at the top and bottom of the face. In this avant garde play on dual time functionality, Cartier have displayed two separate clocks to cover home and away time with exceptional precision, including both having hour and minute hands and small black markers making up the hour indices.  

Altered by each respective crown, they ensure that everything can quickly be adjusted, depending on what fresh time zone you find yourself in. Accuracy is of utmost importance, therefore Cartier employs the steady 9919 MC calibre. Offering a reliable 28,800VpH alongside a 60 hour power reserve, the watches movement is reliable and is a fairly slim 7.9mm. 

This grey leather strap is covert, comfortable and destined to be your best friend when the suit comes out!

• You can buy a Cartier Tonneau Dual Time Rose Gold at retail for £74,000 as of November 2024. 

 

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chrono GMT

Did you know that Gerald Genta is more than just the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus? 

Source - Bulgari

 

The sensational Bulgari Octo Finissimo is heavily inspired by “The Octagonal” that Genta created in 1991. This octagonal watch is given an exceptionally distinctive design, and it represented the follow-up for his sports-chic horological project in the 70s. 

Therefore, in 2012, Bulgari took to The Octagonal, under a new name, The Octo. Storming a number of achievements, including the Octo Finissimo becoming the world's thinnest tourbillon in 2014, producing the world's thinnest automatic movement at Watches and Wonders 2024 at just 1.7mm in the Octo Finissimo Ultra. Is there anything this brand can’t do?

Before you say measure two time zones, let’s get into this astonishing Octo Finissimo Chrono GMT!

This monochromatic wonder is the perfect encapsulation of “less means more.” Do away with your pretension. Give us 42mm x 6.90mm casing of sandblasted titanium for that lightweight durability, an iconic octagonal bezel and a sporty titanium strap any day! 

While a rubber strap may be a top choice for the sporty days, this is the more preferable all-rounder. 

For the dial, Bulgari kept the industrial vibe with a no-frills sandblasted titanium aesthetic. Given exceptionally low-key triple chronograph sub-counters at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, time is read through the openworked hands and razor thin black baton hour markers. The minute track keeps to the shape of the octagonal bezel, demonstrating the watches' suave design codes.

In case you thought they are all bark and no bite, they’ve supplied this model with a BVL 318 calibre. At just 3.30mm thick, they offer a 55 hour power reserve which is pretty impressive given the GMT and chrono functionality. 

• You can buy a Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chrono GMT at retail for £18,500 as of November 2024.

 

Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso

I’m sure we’ve already mentioned that Panerai watches are exceptionally large, but for the Radiomir 1940 3 Days Oro Rosso, these add a healthy dose of luxury, alongside very useful functionality. This is so precious that good-guys like Robin Hood may have to pocket it!

Source - Panerai

 

Interestingly, the 47mm diameter does not reflect an exceptional water resistance. At just 50 metres, we wouldn’t wear this anywhere near water. However, the Goldtech material is an indication that this is a piece for the formal occasions in your life. We’re talking boardroom to office menswear. 

Polished from top to bottom, this is a beautifully presented timepiece. Chances are, this limited edition watch will rarely be spotted out in public, so get this beauty to be one of just a handful of owners!

For the face we have a rich, chocolate shade with a sunray finish. Light can competently be cast throughout, enhancing the legibility of the face, especially since the rose baton and Arabic hour markers are so prominent. 

From the small date aperture at 3 o’clock to the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock, the added hour hand allows you to measure a second time zone with ease. They do not force the complication down our necks either, keeping it to just the added hand. 

Behind the stunning casing is the P.3001 calibre. Protected by a Glucydur balance and secured with Incabloc anti-shock devices, they offer a 21,600VpH and strong 3 day power reserve. 

• You can buy a Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso at retail for £25,700 as of November 2024. 

 

Grand Seiko Spring Drive 3-Day GMT SBGE307

When the first Grand Seiko was released in 1960, it indicated the very first instance of them adopting their lion emblem. So whether you have the “Eye of the Tiger” or join in the patriotic “Three Lions on The Shirt” chant, we are sure this lion-inspired Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGE307 is bound to get you up and dancing!

Source - Grand Seiko

 

The 44.5mm x 14.9mm diameter points to quite a chunky watch, but this sublime casing of solid high-intensity titanium allows you to completely fight against its weight. High intensity titanium is both stronger and lighter than standard titanium, qualifying it as a top choice for all watch lovers looking for a piece to flex around the town. 

Furthermore, Grand Seiko ensures they can counteract any perceived weakness. The screw-down crown and solid caseback entitles these watches to 200 metres of water resistance, allowing them to not only look stylish, but fight against dust and water to a significant level. 

Onto the dial, it is protected with a sapphire crystal, allowing users a glare-proof method of viewing the time. For the colour, Grand Seiko opt to imitate the mane of a lion through a brushed, textured aesthetic against a white shade. 

Who would win this horological duel; Grand Seiko’s mighty lion, or a fearsome Chinese Dragon?

Time is easily read via the polished baton hour markers and sword shaped hands. Given a strip of luminescence through their centre, time is certainly on your side when it comes to its legibility! Fitted with a date aperture at 3 o’clock, alongside a power reserve indicator at 7 o’clock, they are reliable and long-lasting. 

If you fancy reading multiple time zones, simply refer to the extra red hand with a lume filled tip, and a 24 hour scale presented against the black bezel around the top of the casing. 

Now, this must have a powerful heartbeat to cover all of the functions within. Luckily Grand Seiko gave us the Calibre 9R66. Given a 72 hour power reserve alongside an accuracy of around +/- 15 seconds per month, these watches are ultra-precise and are more than capable of measuring your timekeeping needs. 

• You can buy a Grand Seiko Spring Drive 3-Day GMT SBGE307 at retail for £10,000 as of November 2024. 

 

Breitling Navitimer Chronograph GMT 46mm

This Breitling Navitimer 46mm is a tasteful addition to the gent interested in a pilots watch riddled with history, a plethora of functions, and powered by a highly reliable movement. This certainly isn’t one you’ll be selling as a part exchange any time soon…

Source - Breitling

 

Details please!

This 46mm beauty is another stainless steel wonder. The bulky 46mm x 15.48mm is, let's be honest, not for the faint of heart. It’s large, potentially quite hefty at 130 grams (the industry standard is between 80 and 100 grams), and is not quite as effective as titanium. 

However, Breitling ensured to make steel work for them. Given a screwed in caseback with 30 metres of water resistance, they are given chamfered edges alongside polished tops and case sides. Luxury, sweet luxury!

Across the top is Navitimer's famous slide rule scale displayed against a bidirectional bezel. Given a ridged edge, you simply need to spin the bezel in order to alter the inner flange, allowing you to measure calculations referring to distance, speed and time. 

To the dial, the navy blue shade is complemented with a sunray finish. The steel, baton hour markers and hands are fitted with lume for maximum legibility, alongside a triple chronograph display at 12, 6 and 9 o’clock, with 3 o’clock being taken up by a date aperture. 

For the man running from private jet hangars in England to catching a German train, at the Berlin Central Station, he will be glad to know all about the yellow 24 hour scale on the edge of the white, central minute track, and the added, red tipped hand. 

Keeping everything looking as pretty as a picture, they are fitted with the exceptional Breitling 24. The 42 hour power reserve and 28,800VpH frequency is a solid set of stats, keeping the chronographs ¼ second, 30-minute and 12 hour sub-counters and general timekeeping in constant step. 

• You can buy a Breitling Navitimer Chronograph GMT 46mm at retail for £5,650 as of November 2024. 

 

Frequently Asked Questions

What Does GMT Mean On A Watch?

To define GMT, it stands for Greenwich Mean Time which is a time zone. But, for watches, it usually relates to its capability. 

When you see it on a watch, it usually means that you are holding a watch that can measure multiple time zones via an added hand, and a 24 hour scale either on the flange, bezel or a separate sub-counter.

What Is A True GMT Watch?

A true GMT watch is a watch that has either pushers or the crown that moves the main hour hand in one hour increments. 

This is opposed to the extra hour hand moving instead. This means that you are adapting your main source of time to reflect the current time zone you are in. This means the GMT hand will cover your time back home. 

Why Are GMT Watches So Popular?

GMT watches have exploded in popularity for a number of reasons:

• Legacy - The watches have really stood the test of time. First spotted in the 1950s, the complication became an essential tool for pilots under the Rolex GMT-Master, now being a feature that travellers can use. 
• Functionality - As more and more people are taking to the skies to travel, the complication is increasingly more useful for measuring your current time zone, and ensuring that you can still read your time zone back home. Or, if you work in an office environment that works with overseas companies, the complication allows you to quickly check the timezone of a different nation, while still ensuring your home time is accurately measured. 
• Style - The watches not only offer a great purpose, they are incredibly versatile watches for different occasions. Whether you are in the office or taking a dip in the pool, there is a GMT out there that can match your lifestyle. 

Do I Really Need A GMT Watch?

GMT watches are quickly becoming essential to many people due to their ability to quickly read multiple time zones. If you are an avid traveller, work with overseas businesses, or just want a piece that is more than a standard timekeeper, a GMT can easily become a top option for you. 

Why Is Rolex GMT So Hard To Get?

They can prove to be a difficult beast to get your hands on for a number of reasons. For example, they have a long waitlist that creates a backlog of potential buyers. You can be expected to wait for at least a year, and in some cases, up to 2 years. 

Furthermore, the Rolex GMT has a number of references that have become extremely desirable due to their cultural links. For example, the classic 1675 is the first reference, and features iconic bezels like the red and blue “Pepsi”. These nicknames cover everything, including the red and black “Coke”, the black and blue “Batman” and the brown and gold “Root Beer”. 

With people wanting to get their hands on this incredibly successful and high-quality collection, trying to get your hands on one may prove difficult. 

Is GMT Still Relevant?

Yes, the GMT is becoming more relevant as international travel booms in popularity. With business becoming a worldwide enterprise, and travel classified as the norm among a vast proportion of the population, it’s expected that the complication will retain its desirability. 

 

Conclusion

That’s time, horophiles! We’ve gone through everything that makes up the best GMT watches that you should consider in 2024. 

Frankly, it is not going anywhere. Capably allowing users to measure multiple time zones, you can either own a true-GMT which allows you to change the hour hand to reflect the new time zone when travelling, or a caller-GMT when you want to only view overseas time zones via the extra hand. 

So, if you are in the market for something a little luxurious, we simply must recommend the Longines Master Collection in its beautiful yellow gold casing, or the exceptionally complex Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic.

If you are wanting a model that can combat any possible problems when travelling, we recommend the exceptionally strong Grand Seiko Spring Drive Tokyo Lion, or the multi-purpose Rolex Sky-Dweller with its gentle, green dial. 

Therefore, if you are pursuing a Grand Seiko, TAG Heuer, or a Tudor, we have everything you need to find the perfect GMT watch, whether it’s for the boardroom, everyday environment, or for a special occasion.

So, when it comes to getting your hands on a fabulous watch, do you know who you should turn to?

Excellent, we were going to say Chrono Hunter!

 

Can't wait to buy a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G? Looking for the best possible prices in a safe and secure environment with top notch service? Save time and chat with Chrono Hunter here. Check out our phenomenal reviews on Trustpilot and discover why we are the go-to place to buy a watch or sell a watch. 

Benefit from multiple offers from our established network of luxury retailers and accept the offer that’s right for you. Simply enter the details via our form or download our dedicated app, available on both Apple and Android platforms. 

Further Reading: 

9 Grail Watches You Should Start Collecting Today

16 Of The Most Iconic Watches In Horological History

 

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